Thread: Wont run at operating tempriture

when did it last have a decent service ie plugs, leads, points, condensor, dizzy cap etc. sounds like it has a miss, so a good service will more than likely get it running well again

should be able to get most bits at a local spare parts place and not a LR dealership

had any luck finding the cause ?

Hi, did you check that the flap valve in the Mass Air Flow meter is not jammed in the fully open position (as mine was). Symptoms were easy starting but soon black smoke from exhaust, smelled super rich and was effectively running on full choke. Presumed cause a backfire (LPG dual fuel) had jammed the flap valve in the closed position and previous owner had jammed it fully open so ran well on LPG but a cow on petrol.
Also check that no small rubber hoses have blown off the inlet manifold, this will cause VERY difficult starting and when eventually started, seems to be running on approx 5 or 6 cylinders.

Hope this helps!
Regards James C

I havn't had time to go looking for all the bits but I have a week off next week so hope to get into it them.

I have checked the air valve flap but I will check again just to make sure. I will also check that all the hoses are conected.

My father in law met some one who suggested that I need a new computer and wiring as this model had a huge problem with dry joints in the computer. This is a $1000 job for parts plus labor. I hope to speak to this guy next week, he lives around Orange NSW. This does sound like an expensive exercise, especially if it does not work.

I did take it to a mechanic when it 1st started to do it and it ran very well for about 10km. He said that it was the hose off between the air sensor and intake menafold. He was too expensive to take it back. He said that I forgot to tell him that the problem was when it got to operating temp, he may be right.

Will post how I got on

Originally Posted by Banjo_pluker

My father in law met some one who suggested that I need a new computer and wiring as this model had a huge problem with dry joints in the computer. This is .... a $1000 job ...for parts PLUS labour.... I hope to speak to this guy next week,

When you see this chap called "Guy" .... Tell him ... "He's Dreaming"

Banjo_pluker .... What is your location?? ... as it will help with answers on "places to go"

Your best purchase for your ride is a "Haynes repair Manual"

Mike

Yep , i have to agree with Mike , nothing like a good repair manual

Further more ....

If you want to sort it out ....

Tell us the condition & k's of the motor
Post some good shots of the motor
Do as 2_Door has suggested .... Make sure you also replace the rotor button
Buy the manual

Amplifiers generally ... yes to "works when cold ... then die when the motor gets warmed" .... Next time it does it, pop the bonnet and spray some water on it... this will cool it down & let you know if (hint that) it is at fault (don't wet the dizzy)

Ring TRS in SA for a price on a ECU .... (google TRS.com.au) ... or go to the markets section & see who's wrecking

Mike

Thanks so much for the help

my location is Kootingal NSW 15km north of Tamworth

Mike it says it has 286000 km but the odo does not work so I don't realy know how many.

I will give it a total service as suggested including everything.

I was hoping that the CPU was not at fault. I thought it was a bit excessive.

I will take some photos and post them.

I will also try the amplifier test, unless they are cheep and i will just replace it. Mine is located on the side of the dizzy. Is it possible to get the 1 that goes under the coil and rewire it up to it. It looks like a dizzy out job to replace the amplifier on the side.

And the book of course