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Thread: Cylinder head gasket replacement

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    New Plymouth, New Zealand
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    On the 3.5, they are 'fiddly' (read MUCH SWEARING) but the ram housing doesn't have to come off the inlet manifold. When I changed the camshaft and tappets on my 3.5 and did the head gaskets, I left it as one unit.

    Mind you, like I say, too late now....

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Bendigo Victoria
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    I can vouch for the "much swearing"... Of the three stuck bolts two came out with 'freeze & release' but one sheared off. so a two thirds sucess rate so far. I'm about to tackle the 12 inlet manifold bolts tomorrow....
    getting down this far was a very fiddly job.....it's times like these I wish I still had my Morris Minor....

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Bendigo Victoria
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    Hi All,

    well..... if you have followed this thread so far you will know that i have an inlet manifold off my 88 3.5 EFI rangie sitting on the bench with two sheared off bolts barely sticking out of the top.
    I have drilled them and used my best stud extractors but they don't want to budge.....I have used 'penetrene'...'freeze and release' and tapping them sharply but all to no avail.... Anyone any ideas?....I have heard of helicoil inserts but I have never used them and I would still need to get the bolts out.....

    I did wonder about putting it back with silicone sealant rather than the Hylomar..(more flexible?) and just using the four remaining bolts....any views on this???

    The inlet and exhaust manifold bolts I was so worried about just fell out thank goodness.....I am about to tackle the Cylinder head bolts.......

    Thanks to everyone for the help so far

    Cheers

    Brian

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
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    26,500
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    your going to need a very steady hand and a dremel to get started, get the stud flat with the top of the head then center punch it, from there drill it out and then retap, if you need to go oversize and helicoil it.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
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  5. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Bendigo Victoria
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    Thanks Dave, not sure about the steady hand but I have a dremel with attachments... problem is I've already drilled the broken bolts and despite my best efforts the holes ended up off centre..........but I might be able to do something with a burr in the dremel....hadn't thought about using that. Thanks again for the suggestion.
    Cheers Brian.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Bendigo Victoria
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    Ok...I'm down to removing the 14 cylinder head bolts on the 1988 3.5L...but they wont budge...No 1 on each side I can loosen.. but no 2 down by the spark plugs is solid on both sides and with my 1/2 inch socket set and a bar over the handle taking the length out to over 500mm nothing happens....it feels very close to breaking the bolt or my socket bar....Liberal applications of freeze and release have done nothing...Any ideas anyone???

    I wondered about a 3/4" socket and bar but the last thing I want is to shear of the head bolts....
    Also no 2 bolt is about the easiest one to get at out of those lower bolts..the back ones towards the cabin look a lot harder to get a swing at.
    Help!!!

    Cheers, Brian

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Avoca Beach
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    14,152
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    C'mon man use some muscle.

    500MM is not a long bar and I doubt that you will break head bolts . That is why I said have a good quality socket etc. I usually use an extension about 100-150MM long and a breaker bar about 600MM long. Do not use your rachet as you may break it before anything else.

    You should also be undoing them in the same sequence as they are done up, ie the two between cylinders 2 and 3 , then radiating from there.

    Regards Philip A

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Bendigo Victoria
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    Thanks Philip,

    I really am heaving on them but I will try a longer breaker....guess I don't have much choice having got this far. I do understand about loosening them in sequence, that's why I've been concentrating on Nos 1 & 2 bolts, the centre ones...they also happen to be the easiest ones to get at

    Cheers, Brian

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Bendigo Victoria
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    DONE!! both heads off ...thanks Philip you were quite right mate; just took muscle, about a yard of water pipe over my breaker bar and a couple of hernias. .
    I'm not the tallest guy in the world so bending over the engine balanced on a pile of wooden blocks probably reduced my effort somewhat but they are off. Thanks eveyone for the helpful suggestions and encouragement.
    Cheers, Brian

  10. #20
    mike 90 RR Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Sunwhite View Post
    bending over the engine balanced on a pile of wooden blocks probably reduced my effort
    Brian .....

    We have milk crates in OUR shed ....



    Good to hear that your making progress ...

    Mike

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