If you have spark at the coil lead, the 12V side is fine and half of the High tension side is also, so its either rotor button, or cap![]()
Hi all,
seems to be the week for spark issues....
i've tried everything and cant work it out, i had electronic ignition in the car with the amplifier on the guard. I just picked up a 2 door with a scorcher distributor and thought id change it over from the 3.5 - 4.4 now normally i wouldnt have worried about this but im looking to EFI the motor so thought what the hell. i have found TDC and the firiing order is correct. I have 12 volts on either side of the coil and i have power getting to the center of the dizzy cap BUT NOTHING AFTER THAT!!!!! im pulling my hair out.. Mind you both cars were running perfectly 3 hours ago..... so it cant be the cap. Do i need the amplifier or does the new scorcher already have one and why dont i have spark....please help
simon
If you have spark at the coil lead, the 12V side is fine and half of the High tension side is also, so its either rotor button, or cap![]()
G'day Folks
Is the carbon centre contact still in the cap or has it left home
cheers
Hi Simon,
Did you get it sorted yet?
I am having the same mystery at the moment with my 3.9-pulled up at home and 1 hour later no spark(at least it waited for me to get home-could of died anywhere).Weird thing is if I run a cable from my aux battery positive to positive on the coil it runs no problems so it cant be the cap,rotor or leads(new coil also)Must be the ignition control module/amp on the side of the dizzy?Or wiring?
If yours is fixed could you tell me how you did it as its doing my head in and I have no transport!
Cheers,Justin.
The motor will not run if the module was at fault ... You have a wiring fault
Check the positive wire of the coil leading back to the ignition key .... Use your multi meter & check how many volts is in that positive + line ... If 1 volt less than the battery // then nothing is gonna work // Let us know
Mike
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Thanks Mike,
Was definately wiring.After pulling half the dash apart(which I had only reinstalled 1 week ago after putting in a new heater core)I found a connection that the previous owner had a go at soldering together and taping up.It had come apart and was only held together by tape which had worked loose.I had everything out of the car when installing the heatercore, while I was there pulled the carpets out,welded up the rust holes and moved the ecu under the dash.I thought I must have done something bad to it when it died and I cant belive I missed such an obvious fault.I dont want to see another rangie dash pulled apart for a while.Im having nightmares about drowning in kilometres of wiring and relays!
Lucky it kicks a*** off road(when its going)
cheers for the advice,
Justin
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