Exhaust and intake mods are two of the cheaper options to do as far as power gains from standard engines go and if you get it right (Not hard)
The gains in response, economy, and modest power gains are good
Even tyre pressure relates to rolling resistance (More so on road ) and assists in fuel economy and performance
So many little things can be done ie (Polishing the inside of a throttle body helps with flow resistance)
Thermoblock gaskets between the throttle body and manifold and manifold and head reduces temperature resulting in better oxygen levels in the manifold which gives better throttle respone which means increased performance
Its like a good relationship
ITS THE LITTLE THINGS THAT MATTER![]()
can I have the sports section when your finished....
oh, mask it.....dont try to paint piece by piece. thats it.
sports section please![]()
Hey, thought I'd drop you a line and give you my two pennies worth. Although I've been a member for some time, this is my first posting, so here goes.
I'm currently well through the process of respraying a 1976 2 door. The project started because of rust in the tail gate and door frames. After repairing the tailgate and picking up two doors with a lot less cancer, I bolted them onto the car and it looked like a piece of poop.
I've now gone the whole hog and done a bare metal strip down of all the base modules of the car with the exception of the roof. Everything removes easily and has allowed me to get access to other areas where rust has got into the car.
Things to consider when you get to this level. You need alot of space to store all these pieces and where to lay them out when you do your spraying. I've had to rebog my bonnet twice after it was 'accidentally' reshaped due to other parts falling on it.
I don't have a garage so I have a cheapo 'wedding reception' looking tent set up over the car - so far so good. It keeps the dust and bugs out and sort of keep the neighbours happy with less overspray wafting around.
During this project I've also bought a compressor, spray gun and other assorted goodies. This starts to get expensive but it has worked out cheaper than renting.
As with all painting jobs, then end result will only be as good as all the preparation you are prepared to invest in the job. This is slow and iterative process to get all the dings, cracks and rust repairs back to looking good.
Paint is not that expensive. I bought an etch primer (2 ltr 2 part ) which gives a good base to the bare metal / alloy. 4ltr of primer, 4 ltr of top coat, thinners and some bumper bar paint. All up this has set me back about $500. Some would laugh at this as I've probably double my investment in the car, but as I'm a RR tragic and this will be a good quality resto I believe that the investment is worth it.
Masking up before painting is in my opinion the biggest pain. In order to do it successfully you need to spend some time. I'm doing the car in white and then at through the window line I'm doing the same bumper black. ie, the door window frames, top of the A, B and C pillars and the rear upper tail gate. I'll eventually get all the windows tinted as dark as possible. My goal is to have a 'floating roof' effect.
What are your goals. I'm doing this as i find it good therapy and has become a bit of a passion.
This weekend should see the final top coats going on and then it's just a little step of putting the whole thing back together. I know I'm going to be ultra-keen to start the rebuild and I'll have to hold myself back and let the paint cure for a while otherwise I'll end up knocking alot of it off in my haste.
Let me know if you like any more information or pictures.
Good luck.
Can you put any photo's of the resto up?
i've owned two old 2 doors before and would love to do a full resto one day, would love to know what it would be like to have a 'factory' new 2 door..or as close to one anyway..
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