Fossicker
Hi all,
i'm finally building the induction for the p76, So ive got a 4 barrel manifold and a truck avenger 4 barrel 460cfm carby, i did this intentionally to steer away from fuel injection. Im putting a new cam in it and need your help...
does anyone have any ideas when wether to go with a stump puller type of arrangement, keeping in mind its the will power inlet SINGLE plain manifold. OR a mild cam does anyone have any advice that could help me here. i would like a power range between 1500 - 4500 rpm
Im replacing the lifters and all the important gear i'm just up to the bit im not sure about.
The car is destined for 4x4ing not highway driving and its from what i can tell very stock with leyland heads. also running scorcher ignition.
thanks for your help.
simon
RoverLord
cleaning up the heads for inlet and exhaust will help to start with and adding a set of extractors will go a long way and its not money wasted as its only going to help any cam you put in...
drop GuyG a Pm hes got a good setup in his donk that may be just what youre chasing going by your description but his in injected.
Dave
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Swaggie
Single plane manifolds are used for high rpm output. For a daily driver a dual plane manifold and a Rochester Quadrajet with vacuum secondaries is a far better proposition
URSUSMAJOR
Wizard
SupporterG`day SimonOriginally Posted by 4.42doorrangie
My choice would be a Wade 259a its range is a little higher maybe 300rpm bottom and a bit broader maybe another 1000 top but if advanced a couple of degrees would be close to what your after but probably not needed , have a look at there site , do the cam thing for yours if you have the specs , give them a ring and talk to them ? ( WWW.wadecams.com or somthing like .)
The willpower would be good with LPG .
Some stuff you don`t ask but won`t hurt to know and it will run fine on leyland heads just a bit better with bigger valves .
If you don`t know the leyland heads have smaller valves both inlet and exhaust than Rover heads after about 1976 .
Some say drilling the block for oil to lube the overhead gear is required when using rover heads on a leyland but plenty run just the leyland push rods to oil the overhead gear without any problem .
Anyhow ERC 0216 Range Rover or SD1 Rover Heads have bigger valves than the Leyland ,( no matter if a Terrier or P76 , 10 bolts ) and are pretty easy to find because pretty much all rover heads from 1976 to 1989 off 3.5s (14 bolts )as well as all 3.9 heads ( 14 bolts) that`s to 1994 , also heads from 3.9s ,4.0s and 4.6s ( 10 bolts )infact later 3.9,4.0 and 4.6 can share the same heads which are HRC 2479 they are of coarse the 28cc chambered or composite gaskets type and these are till end of P38a .
Cheers
Master
Given that the 4.4 has such good torque, I would put a cam in that will enable you to exploit the advantages of the Willpower manifold...ie something with more mid range flexibility. That and a pair of 10 bolt heads with some compression..............noice!
What pistons are you using?
With the longer stroke and small ports the 4.4 do enjoy a bit of adventure in the bump stick department.Cant find the specs on mine ATM but has a nice lump at idle and comes on hard at 1200 to 4000 RPM still drivable at 800 RPM. The same cam in a 3.5 is awful
. I'll fire up my old PC and see if I can find the info.
Master
That would be good, might save a bit of guessworkWith the longer stroke and small ports the 4.4 do enjoy a bit of adventure in the bump stick department.
Master
iv got a scorcher distributer too there great. i run mine at 13 deg on high octane, it has heeps of punch, i would say as much as my 91 honda hatchback. i have bumped up the compression ratio to 10.5 and am using a wade camshaft. i think the timing is probably too low for lpg, i recon it could go to about 16 deg or so, but it starts to ping on petrol, so i backed off to 13 deg btdc. my cam is a high torque cam from wade, they are great, 214 bucks for a brand new cam, custom grind. i did a quick porting job on the heads wile they were off ,, and fit some rpi over sized valves in too, they have a kit that has high lift springs, that way when you pop the valve open there is no chance of coil bind.
another trick wile you have the heads off, is to port the oil return galarys. to help the oil flow down the heads and return. just remove the sharp joint in the casting with a dye grinder. its a deep reach, so i used a 1/4 inch end mill in a dye grinder to get down to it . you could probably use a rat tail file too,
if you go over sized valves there is some other problems that can go along with it, i had to machine out the old seats, and bore out the heads push in over sized seats and counter bore them , that was an extra 800 bucks, if you dont there is a chance the seat can come out, or if you dont over size it, there is no benifit from the os valve.
cheers . jeff.
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