What did you do on your Perentie Today.

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Originally Posted by dranoweb

Drain plug you say?
I'll go look that up. I still disagree with the design.

Red thing on the fuel cap is a padlock. I'll take a picture later and post it.

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The other thing you can do to reduce the mess:
1. when draining, loosen the filter slowly until you get a bit of oil coming out the thread, then quickly tighten about 1/4 turn.
Then remove the oil sump plug. while oil is draining from the sump, slowly loosen the filter until you hear it suck air. This allows the oil in the filter to be pulled out as the oil drains out.

2. When installing the new filter, just half fill it with oil instead of completely filling it. I've found I can quickly flip over and install a half full filter before it makes a mess. You do need to be careful to make sure you don't cross thread it. Just make sure the oil light goes out within 5 seconds of starting it the first time. If it does not, you have an airlock and need to re-install the filter (apparently anyway, I've changed my oil 3 times using this method and it hasn't happened to me yet).

nice to learn about the drain bung. Never looked for one, just assumed it was mess makin' time!

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Originally Posted by Chris078

The other thing you can do to reduce the mess:
1. when draining, loosen the filter slowly until you get a bit of oil coming out the thread, then quickly tighten about 1/4 turn.
Then remove the oil sump plug. while oil is draining from the sump, slowly loosen the filter until you hear it suck air. This allows the oil in the filter to be pulled out as the oil drains out.

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Even better, just buy the Isuzu filter; it has a plug on the top of it. You just remove the top plug, remove the drain bung and viola - mess free. Soon you'll be doing oil changes in your best tuxedo with the Perentie parked on a fine Turkish carpet.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...016/02/257.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Chris078

The other thing you can do to reduce the mess:
1. when draining, loosen the filter slowly until you get a bit of oil coming out the thread, then quickly tighten about 1/4 turn.
Then remove the oil sump plug. while oil is draining from the sump, slowly loosen the filter until you hear it suck air. This allows the oil in the filter to be pulled out as the oil drains out.

2. When installing the new filter, just half fill it with oil instead of completely filling it. I've found I can quickly flip over and install a half full filter before it makes a mess. You do need to be careful to make sure you don't cross thread it. Just make sure the oil light goes out within 5 seconds of starting it the first time. If it does not, you have an airlock and need to re-install the filter (apparently anyway, I've changed my oil 3 times using this method and it hasn't happened to me yet).

nice to learn about the drain bung. Never looked for one, just assumed it was mess makin' time!

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Or drill a hole in the top of the filter. No need to put oil in the filter either, just pop the EDIC fuse and crank it until you get pressure.

something must be a little different for me as the air intake hose sits on top of my oil filter.

It made getting the filter removal tool in there a little difficult.

In other news however; (and thanks for the useful tips too)

Today I managed to change the last of my oils - front and rear diff, greased inner and outer nipples on all uni joints.

removed, repaired, and refitted RLHS drive flange (had to use 8.8 ton rated bolts till I can get some 9.5's on monday)

bypassed the blackout switch (temporary)

replaced headlights with sealed beams

replaced an indicator lense

rewired the interior light, and replaced with modded LED (shown below)
and glad to see it actually works now

fixed my washer nozzles.

replaced my wipers arms and blades.

replaced the speedo backlight

pressure washed the engine bay and grease splatter from 20 years of over greased uni joints.

engine, transfer and gearbox oils were all done last week.

checked oil in ball joints (looks like I'm full of one shot grease now)

Only thing left now, is pull the tail shaft off, and rip out that felt washer in the handbrake drum area and seal it up with gasket goo.

with luck, I'll be roadworthy shortly.


FYI - LED mod:
modules available from jaycar stores for about $10 (much brighter than the 60c ones from china). They are not polarity sensitive.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...016/02/230.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...016/02/231.jpg

Today I replaced the internal door trim/padding on the front doors. The trim was missing so I bought sufficient off the roll from Daley's - Home which looks to be exactly the same as the original.

I then removed the glass from the drivers door top and re-sealed it into the runner. While I had the glass out I decided to remove the felts stretch them a little to return them to their original length and then replaced them reversed. Much improved for no cost.
After that job I cut the base of the tongue on the sliding window lock mechanism and inserted a packing piece to engage the lock further into the glass. The result is that the mechanism now locks the window. :)

May install the missing operator seat and several of the radio tables tomorrow.

Some nifty tricks.
I've been looking at the window locks wondering if they can be improved.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by BadCo.

Or drill a hole in the top of the filter. No need to put oil in the filter either, just pop the EDIC fuse and crank it until you get pressure.

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Hi Badco,
Just wondering where is the EDIC fuse located?
Regards Warrick.

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Originally Posted by wpalmo

Hi Badco,
Just wondering where is the EDIC fuse located?
Regards Warrick.

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On the 6x6 it's an in line fuse behind or near the clutch reservoir. I assume it would be similar in a 4x4.

Thanks Mick. Yes it is right where you said on the 4x4 too. 10 AMP spade fuse.
Changing oil today at 20 646 kms on the clock.
Regards Warrick.

I finally got my RWC this morning.
had to sacrifice all military lights and bonnet tool holders, including the riveted ones....

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