Thread: perentie roof cage

check if the rivnuts are still servicable, my bet is one or a couple are stuffed therefore the cage was left off

Originally Posted by mattmac

I recently purchased a perentie softtop but it's missing the roofrack/cage -anyone know where i can get one?

Easy enough to make one up with a bit of RHS, a tube bender and some weldmesh. Get the measurements from another vehicle.

I've taken the mesh roof panel off my GS Cargo Perentie to remove the canvas for a minor repair and to make it easier to clean the mildew off.

My cage was fixed by 4 / M8 or 5/16'' cup-head square-shank bolts; 2 bolts up through the roll hoop at the front and 2 up through the rear canopy frame. Bolts are if slightly different lengths due to the cleat and hole arrangements of the mesh roof panel. There is a mating square recess in the two canopy frames to engage the bolt shanks to prevent the bolt shanks from turning. Not sure where Kelvin's (weeds) reference to rivnuts comes into play; I just assumed anchoring with the cup-head bolts was the O/E method.

On top of the canopy are rubber bushes on top of which the roof panel cleats and holes sit, with the panel restrained by washers and hex nuts.

When my mesh roof panel goes back on I will be replacing the bolts with new galvanised bolts & nuts, replacing the rubber bushes, and in addition to the tensioning hex nut I'll be fitting galvanised eyebolts to the ends of the bolts as tie-off points.

Figured there was no harm in this as I already can't fit in most covered carparks

Originally Posted by cummo

I've taken the mesh roof panel off my GS Cargo Perentie to remove the canvas for a minor repair and to make it easier to clean the mildew off.

My cage was fixed by 4 / M8 or 5/16'' cup-head square-shank bolts; 2 bolts up through the roll hoop at the front and 2 up through the rear canopy frame. Bolts are if slightly different lengths due to the cleat and hole arrangements of the mesh roof panel. There is a mating square recess in the two canopy frames to engage the bolt shanks to prevent the bolt shanks from turning. Not sure where Kelvin's (weeds) reference to rivnuts comes into play; I just assumed anchoring with the cup-head bolts was the O/E method.

On top of the canopy are rubber bushes on top of which the roof panel cleats and holes sit, with the panel restrained by washers and hex nuts.

When my mesh roof panel goes back on I will be replacing the bolts with new galvanised bolts & nuts, replacing the rubber bushes, and in addition to the tensioning hex nut I'll be fitting galvanised eyebolts to the ends of the bolts as tie-off points.

Figured there was no harm in this as I already can't fit in most covered carparks

umm, i will have to refresh my memory, i cannot recall bolts going right through the front ROP's.

my last job in chocko's was helping the truckies replace some canopies and i am certain i have to cut the head of the bolt off and fit riv-nuts. pretty sure there was an instruction to follow. its been a while and a few drinks so i would have to look at one.

Both the front and rear bar on mine have 8mm Riv-nuts for the rack.

Originally Posted by jackz

Both the front and rear bar on mine have 8mm Riv-nuts for the rack.

phew....thought i was going crazy

if bolts are going right through the ROPS than i guess somebody has taken the easy route as you should drill or weld ROPS....well the front one anyway

Drilling it is definitely not recommended! =-O

There are probably dozens left lying around at army bases around the country, leaning up against something, or hidden on top of something. Just like cargo barriers from white fleet.

Jeff