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Thread: Removal of Blackout Switch?

  1. #1
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    Removal of Blackout Switch?

    Hello,
    Does anyone know if it is possible/easy to remove the blackout switch? Ideally I'd like to just connect the existing wires that come off the unit in some manner that would take it out of the system.

    OR, is it possible to put in a 25 amp/3 way switch like a Carling or something to replace it with? I'm not fussed about the ability to Black Out the Vehicle, but as long as I have the lights on it would a cool option. However, I had so much problem with my with on my 2A that I'd happily replace/remove it.....

    Cheers,
    JRW

  2. #2
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    Yes, it's just a matter of removing two of the cables and joining them. If you go to REMLR library and look up the Perentie Unit Repair Manual, the schematic is on the second last page. It will give you the cable colours to join.

  3. #3
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    Well the schematic doesn't have a key to cable colours, but there will be six cables entering the switch; join the two "N" coloured cables (?) and also the two "GP" (green with a pink or purple stripe) ones.

    As also noted on the REMLR site, Perenties came with a few different harnesses... Good luck!

  4. #4
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    A test pencil will help.

    When you remove it, people like me would be happy to buy it off you.

    Diana

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  5. #5
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    Thanks Diana and Dervish!

    Diana, you're first off the rank if I decide to take it off/out.

    Do you guys know if it would be possible to simply run this through a normal 3 way switch? I'm thinking not as the Blackout Switch is might hefty!

    Thanks for any thoughts on the Carling type switch.
    JRW

  6. #6
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    If you are going to disable the convoy and reduced lighting then there is no reason you couldn't use a Carling type switch. The reason for the current switch was that it does so much more than just turning on the head lamps and side lamps. And the Army wanted a switch that was robust.

    If you are planning fitting a module like Mud Stuff console for radios etc then the Carling switches would be the way to go.

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  7. #7
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    It would have to be a double gang, 3 position (not two position and off) switch able to handle a fair amount of current... If you found one I think it would be around the same size as the existing.

  8. #8
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    Hi, just wondering if installing 3 relays which are controlled by a switch would work?

  9. #9
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    Using relays would allow you to use a switch with a lower current carrying capacity. How low the CCC of the switch is would dictate how many relays you'd need, but I've only ever seen switches that complex for control purposes i.e. VERY low CCC. If you were to use one of these switches, you would need 6 relays (with the caveat that I have only spent a few minutes looking at the schematic for this purpose, so you may get away with one or two less).

  10. #10
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    Thanks Dervish!

    I completely removed the switch today. All I had to do was simply disconnect the two brown wires (which were 12V constant/unswitched) and connect them together. Couldn't have been easier if removing the Blackout Switch is interesting to anyone.

    Just for giggles, I attached the front convoy lights and the rear diff light to an open connector I found that is only activated when the light switch is in the parking light position. Just in case I ever wanted to have those lights operational.

    Thanks again for your help in regards to this matter!
    JRW

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