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Thread: Perentie Jerry Cans

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Medowie, NSW
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    I have a pair of the green Aldi jerry's. Quality seems quite good to me; bayonet closure with secondary locking pin and paint quality is very good. Not sure whether they would be made from the same gauge steel as the ProQuip cans, but as I don't use them day-in/day-out I think they'll be OK.


    They fit in the footprint of the single rear carriers on the Perentie all-right and the top of the cans sit below the strap saddle. It's on my long list of jobs though to cut some 10 to 12mm neoprene or polyethylene foam to sit in the base of the carriers when being used to stop rubbing between the can and the carrier.


    I also have an old British army jerry can with the screw-in flanged bung but unfortunately I have no matching spout for it. I'll have to keep my eyes open for a spout and then I'll have a spare - though I'll be giving it a bloody good clean-out internally before I trust anything that comes out of it going in the Isuzu.


    Dave

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Hunter Valley, NSW
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    Quote Originally Posted by oowa View Post
    Hi people,
    I see people are covering number plates, I have posted pics on here and not covered my plate.
    What is the reason behind it, should I have done it ?
    any benefits...


    help me understand
    Bruce
    Me just being cautious. You never know where pics posted on the internets might end up.

    I have added personalised plates since this photo, so it wouldn't have mattered much anyway.

    Follow up on the jerry can: I keep mine full of diesel most of the time and have noticed the paint is rubbing off the can where it contacts the rubber strip on the back of the Perentie. When it's empty, I flip it around, to make for easier filling and to remind me it's empty. Much less paint rubbed off on the "empty" side. Prob. because it spends less time this way more than anything else.

    Underside looks ok. Dunno if a rubber mat underneath would actually increase wear??

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Western Victoria
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    I was at a MV display recently. One of the jerry cans on one of the vehicles sprung a leak. It was sitting on rubber.
    I'm told metal on rubber wears quicker than metal on metal. I don't know if it is true but I suspect it may be.
    Where are Jamie and Adam when you need them?

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Medowie, NSW
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    Yep depending on what the rubber sheet is that is used the surface can be very hard, and the material can be quite rigid in the plane of it's thickness e.g. rubber insertion used for pipework flanges; it compresses only a little at the surface for sealing but is quite rigid under further compression. I could certainly see where the base of a steel jerry could/would wear on the surface of a product like insertion rubber over time.


    I think a foam material such as the polyethylene foam used as concrete joint filler strip would be better and it's what I'll be plumping for; it is available in a range of thicknesses, it is compressible (the amount of compressibility being dependant on the type/grade), and it has a smooth external face each side as a wearing surface. There's probably other similar material out there - I'm just familiar with this product as my background is civil design/construction.


    Yeah - I could see this on Mythbusters.......


    Cheers, Dave

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    NSW Mid North Coast
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    "I think a foam material such as the polyethylene foam used as concrete joint filler strip would be better "


    But what is its resistance to diesel like?

  6. #26
    Davehoos Guest
    I have sheets of insertion rubber that I cut stuff from. don't normally have problems with it.


    I replaced a fire truck tank and it had been packed selected size sheets of pollystyrene. the sheets on the bottom had been as heavy as light wood. with little compaction.


    Have had to do recall and reworks because the rubber used attacked any moist metal. was told it was PH issue. sometimes it was only cured by painting a protective surface--very thick and nice shades of rust brown.

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Medowie, NSW
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    Good point Rathgar - not sure how the polyethylene foam I had in mind would handle contact with diesel. It's use as a concrete slab joint filler is pretty universal though - I imagine at servos etc. as well - so I think it would probably be OK.
    I do have some scraps laying around - I might do the Adam and Jamie thing and lay it in some diesel for a while to test it. I'll post up what happens.
    Cheers, Dave

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