Thread: Fuel system bleeding tips

sedimenter is on the suction side of the priming pump. and fuel filter after. often there are filters in lift pump inlet. the pressure control [relief] valve on the IP return often wont let air return to the tank. if it passes air it wont require bleed screws to be open.


All air in the sedimenter and suction hose must be pumped through the priming pump and fuel filter. you need some fuel in the priming pump to get the valves to seal so leave the fuel filter off or loose till fuel has been pumped up to it or use air pressure TO TEST FOR LEAKS..


sedimenter fitted on a Perentie is connected reverse to civilian vehicles and the direction arrows on the housing. in through the center and out on the outside. there should will be very little air in the housing.it can be replaced with a fuel filter housing if required.

It should be self bleeding, well mine is. I don't bother loosening injector return lines.

I wipe the seals for the spinon filter and sedimenter with vaso to help them bed in. I think the sedimenter is a great bit of kit. It picks up larger particles and saves the spin on.

I have an inline 20 micron filter before the lift pump to prevent blockages.

What type of 20 micron filter did you use?

Originally Posted by rar110

It should be self bleeding, well mine is. I don't bother loosening injector return lines.

I wipe the seals for the spinon filter and sedimenter with vaso to help them bed in. I think the sedimenter is a great bit of kit. It picks up larger particles and saves the spin on.

I have an inline 20 micron filter before the lift pump to prevent blockages.

. I don't bother loosening injector return lines.

Neither do I.
fill both the sedimenter and filter with diesel, crack open the bleed screw on top of the filter housing, pump it a few times till air stops bubbling out, tighten up screw, clean up the mess and done.

IIRC the primer pump is replacable? anyone done that? Mine leaks like a sieve when priming, which is annoying and makes a mess.
If it's relatively easy, I may replace it to save the once a year clean of the diff/axle.

Do yourself a favour and get one of those generic bosch ones on ebay for around $20 -works a treat and no more mess!

Originally Posted by Chris078

. I don't bother loosening injector return lines.

Neither do I.
fill both the sedimenter and filter with diesel, crack open the bleed screw on top of the filter housing, pump it a few times till air stops bubbling out, tighten up screw, clean up the mess and done.

IIRC the primer pump is replacable? anyone done that? Mine leaks like a sieve when priming, which is annoying and makes a mess.
If it's relatively easy, I may replace it to save the once a year clean of the diff/axle.

assuming there are no leaks or blockages, that replacing the filter or fixing those leaks is why you have to bleed the thing in the first place.

heres how I do it when Im in a "gotta get it going fast and screw the book" bleed method.

Crack the bleed line on the top of the filter
crack the bleed screw on the injector pump
Crack the #1 injector line on the injector

pump like buggery on the manual pump till the fuel turns up at the fuel filter, close that while you keep pumping slowly

pump until fuel comes out the bleed screw on the injector pump, close that secure the manual pump.

hold it flat crank it till you see the #1 injector spitting, if it starts let it idle if it will, if it stalls dont panic. Close #1 injector union.

If it was Idling it will now keep running and should smooth out, if it doesnt hold it at 1000-1500 rpm till it does. If it stalled, hold it pinned and crank it till it starts then try to hold 1000-1500 rpm. Once thats happened slowly back the idle down to normal idle.

Safety gear poeple, eye wear as a minimum gloves and rags and all sort of other stuff. Its a 4bd1, it eats the heavy steel in the LT95 for breakfast and chews up drive line bits including 8ha slasbury rear ends. Your flesh and bone wont even pass as an apertief. while its not Common rail pressures in the injector on it its still enough to make you very very not happy with yourself if you do something dumb.

Originally Posted by mattmac

Do yourself a favour and get one of those generic bosch ones on ebay for around $20 -works a treat and no more mess!

got a link? Is it a pump that goes into the fuel pump, or a separate thing?

if you're only trying to bleed it up after changing the filter and you havent prefilled the filter (which is the correct thing to do let no one tell you other wise)
Fill the tank, make sure the battery is charged, if you've got a jump pack or a slaving vehicle hook that up too
Pull the jesus fuse from the fuel cut wind motor
crank the engine on the starter till the oil light goes out. crank for 5 more seconds
put the jesus fuse back
set full fuel (step on the loud pedal hold it on the floor)
start it.
hold it pinned it'll die down, if you got it right it'll pick up again hold 1500 RPM till it runs smoothly
IF it stalls... hold it pinned, crank it till it burns.