Thread: Fuel Bleed

I used to bleed be loosening the top of the front injector. Then pump the lift pump. Now I just pump the lift pump, and take it for an Italian tune.

I don't think it's text book, but works ok.

If you change just the sedimentor, fill the sedimenter up when you put it back on, then you won't have to bleed it.

Don't forget the gauze filter for the pump, pretty much in the front drivers side engine mount.

Badco
If you are not changing the fuel filter at the same time you will be able to start the engine once you have put the sediment we back together
With luck it will bleed itself, if not open the outlet on top of the fuel filter housing and push down the fuel primer pump on the injector pump until you get diesel flowing out. Close that outlet and then pump diesel through to the bleed screw on the injector pump until you get diesel there as well.
Once you have done that crank it until it starts
DO NOT use any start fluids
Regards
Phil

Badco
Sorry
I meant to address this to Chris

Originally Posted by Phil B

Badco
Sorry
I meant to address this to Chris

No worries, thought you did. You can always edit posts:P

Theres as many bleed methods as there are people who own isuzus

the short version of the by the book method.

theres 2 bleed points one on the fuel filter and one on the IP.
crack them both and pump the hand prime pump.
when the fuel comes out the filter, close that one
when fuel comes out the IP close that one
crack the injector unions
hold the accelerator flat to the floor floor
crank it till the injectors spill fuel
close the injector unions
hold the acelerator flat to the floor and crank it till it starts.


my shortcut method is to pump the hand pump till the resistance increases, pump it another 100 times, then do the step on the loud pedal and crank it till it starts routine

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

Theres as many bleed methods as there are people who own isuzus

the short version of the by the book method.

theres 2 bleed points one on the fuel filter and one on the IP.
crack them both and pump the hand prime pump.
when the fuel comes out the filter, close that one
when fuel comes out the IP close that one
crack the injector unions
hold the accelerator flat to the floor floor
crank it till the injectors spill fuel
close the injector unions
hold the acelerator flat to the floor and crank it till it starts.


my shortcut method is to pump the hand pump till the resistance increases, pump it another 100 times, then do the step on the loud pedal and crank it till it starts routine

Thanks, but what is an/the IP?
<edit> nevermind , I assume that is the injection pump.

wow. I'd be feeling a bit nervous cracking the injector lines.

Interestingly, according to the [ame="http://afmsafety.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/VEH_G103_Land_Rover_110_4X4_all_types_Light_Grade_ Repair.pdf"]manual [/ame](EMEI G103)
on page 53 it details the bleeding the fuel system and does not mention
anything about cracking the injector lines.


edit to add: completed fuel filter change, followed the directions as per manual (not cracking injector lines) and it started and ran fine. Is there any way to do this process without making a complete mess? I had a little tray under the fuel filter and the manual hand pump, and still got diesel damn near eveywhere.

also whoever designed that oil filter backet needs some discipline. why mount the fuel filter housing the correct(non messy way) and then make you make a complete mess of your engine bay whenever you change the filter !!!