Thread: Electrical Gremlins

Get this charger.

There should be only one fuse for stop lights that also does dash lights and wind screen wipers.

Originally Posted by BadCo.

Get this charger.

There should be only one fuse for stop lights that also does dash lights and wind screen wipers.

On the fuse box cover in front, there is one labelled STOP that does dash lights and windscreen wipers
and another, also labelled STOP, that does REV/STOP and indicators.

odd eh?

That's actually the charger I was planning on getting.

I think what has killed the battery in mine is that the previous owner has fitted a battery isolator which for whatever reason, drains the battery if you forget to isolate the battery when you turn the car off.

I've done it a couple of times and I'm pretty sure it was done a few times before I got it, so now it doesn't hold many AMPS.

going to wait until tomorrow to get a new battery. I can get an N70 battery direct from Isuzu for $135 (same as what they put in there trucks), or go to supercheap and pick up another one of these which is what is in it at the moment for $230.

Just checked my fuse panel, it also has two stop light fuses. Never noticed that before! The one with the dash lights and window washer is definitely the brake lights though. Had mine pop a few times.

As for the 8A bottom left, that'll probably be the fog lights from the county loom.

EDIT: If I was to buy a new battery I would be getting a AGM, then a second later on.

Originally Posted by BadCo.

Just checked my fuse panel, it also has two stop light fuses. Never noticed that before! The one with the dash lights and window washer is definitely the brake lights though. Had mine pop a few times.

As for the 8A bottom left, that'll probably be the fog lights from the county loom.

EDIT: If I was to buy a new battery I would be getting a AGM, then a second later on.

Sadly can't afford one of those at the moment. They are a bit pricey!

Originally Posted by BadCo.

Looking at the wiring diagram, if you were to remove the blackout switch then you would need to bridge cable 2 to 1 (N-N) and 6 to 5 (GP-GP, green/purple?) to maintain normal operation.

Diagram here
http://www.remlr.com/documents/Wirin...202_3_of_3.pdf

Or here
Vehicle Wiring Diagrams - REMLR
Page 3 under 110 GS

Badco, You beat me too it, I had trouble uploading mine its 500Kb, the limit on it is 100KB for a pdf.

The drawing is the hardest thing to follow, with a low res. pdf....oh my eyes hurt...lol

Originally Posted by RussJen

Badco, You beat me too it, I had trouble uploading mine its 500Kb, the limit on it is 100KB for a pdf.

The drawing is the hardest thing to follow, with a low res. pdf....oh my eyes hurt...lol

Yeah its pretty low quality. I find them easier to read on my phone.

Originally Posted by BadCo.

Looking at the wiring diagram, if you were to remove the blackout switch then you would need to bridge cable 2 to 1 (N-N) and 6 to 5 (GP-GP, green/purple?) to maintain normal operation.

Diagram here
http://www.remlr.com/documents/Wirin...202_3_of_3.pdf

Or here
Vehicle Wiring Diagrams - REMLR
Page 3 under 110 GS

Badco, You beat me too it, I had trouble uploading mine its 500Kb, the limit on it is 100KB for a pdf.

The drawing is the hardest thing to follow, with a low res. pdf....oh my eyes hurt...lol

BADCO YOU ROCK!!!!!!! Have one on me

Problems fixed. Reverse lights turned out to be a loose bulb,
and crossing the green/purple wires fixed the brake lights and the diff lock indicator.

Now need to find the original post where they said just to cross the brown (1 and 2) wires together.

That person will be driving around without brake lights unless they have figured it out in the meantime.

Now off for a .

Thanks again.