Thread: Perentie OIL - what goes where?

Use genuine fuel and oil filters. Most Isuzu truck/service centres will be able to supply them.
a bit more money, but worth it.

Well I would, but I live rural, and it's due for roadworthy in a few days.
Aftermarket was better than leaving the other in.

I'll get round to using genuines when A: I locate an isuzu dealer within driving distance, and B: I get it roadworthy enough to drive to said dealer.

My primary runabout has also done a head gasket and cooked a coil pack, so highway driving is ... fun... to say the least. Currently full of chemiweld - as it's a nissan qr25de engine, and probably not worth repairing.

Just follow the fuel pipe to the bottom of the pump. The filter is in the banjo fitting. And, even though it looks impossible to service without removing the engine, it is possible.

I know about this one, I did extensive research before purchasing, and this was one of the tricks I read up on.
I think I found a photo of the filter in question somewhere on this forum actually.

Transfer fill plug: not found------The square bung on the rear middle of the transfer case, usually just above the serial number,

By the way - this was the biggest piece of fecal matter I have ever had to deal with.

Was stuck in tight, and I mean tight. Ended up using a short socket extension backwards with a 13mm spanner a 2 foot of pipe.

only way I could get it out without rounding it off.

Lets hope the ball joints are not the same.

Originally Posted by dranoweb

fuel filter, diffs, ball joint's not yet done - tips welcome as always.

Get a hand pump!


For the 20L engine/gerarbox/transfer case oil drum.

For the diffs.

You will quickly understand why.

Originally Posted by BadCo.

Get a hand pump!


For the 20L engine/gerarbox/transfer case oil drum.

For the diffs.

You will quickly understand why.

I HAVE a hand pump - it's how I filled the gearbox and transfer case.
it was a restriction of time, not difficulty.

I still also have to grease every uni joint, and I think I have a leaking hub now. and probably adjust the steering box, replace the canvas, fix the wiring cable glands, replace a wiper arm and replace the windscreen seal - by thursday, in which time I will also be working every day (as I have all weekend)

so yes, if there's a quicker way to do any of the above, I'm open to suggestions.

the more I fix the more I find, and the less confident I am that it will pass roadworthy on thurs - and so I'll probably have 7 more days to fix this.

parts I ordered to fix issues like the output shaft seal and flange to shaft nut leak are not scheduled to arrive for another month, despite being ordered two weeks ago.

so, I got a feeling I'll be at this for a while yet.

Originally Posted by dranoweb

By the way - this was the biggest piece of fecal matter I have ever had to deal with.

Was stuck in tight, and I mean tight. Ended up using a short socket extension backwards with a 13mm spanner a 2 foot of pipe.

only way I could get it out without rounding it off.

Lets hope the ball joints are not the same.

IIRC It's a half inch square socket that's used to remove that bung.
As I said earlier, you need to coat the thread with silastic(or something similar) to stop it weeping. Maybe someone put silicone or some glue like substance on it instead, locking up the nut.

If our greasing your universals, you'll probably need one of these. The standard size fitting doesn't fit between the two halves of the joint. Use the tip of the needle to press the ball into the grease fitting and squeeze away!

Sounds like yours has had a bit of a tough life. For the future, you'll probably need to replace the tie rod ends and the rear A arm ball joint and probably the steering arm ball joint as well. Do yourself a favour and spend the small amount extra to get greasable fittings. Well worth it.