Is your handbrake drum leaking oil?

Hi all.
I had this problem when I got my new Project Perentie home from the auction. Took the rear drive shaft and brake drum off to find everything was brand new, just fitted but oil was leaking out past the flange nut. Very little had got inside the drum. Having seen the struggle and amount of silicone a friend had put behind the nut on their Stage 1 to try and stop it leaking I just cleaned everything up and applied a thin film of Loctite 515 to the brake drum to output flange surface. Assembled that and then applied Loctite 587 Blue Max Flange Sealant to the drive shaft flange and bolted it all up. Cleaned off the excess and let it sit overnight before driving. This procedure seals the output flange nut in it's own chamber and oil is free to travel along the spline as expansion and contraction dictates. I have had no oil leakage from the brake drum since then. If there should be any oil leakage now it would have to originate from the seal, not from the flange nut.

Hope this helps.

I just had a look under mine today while getting the drive shaft flange nut size.

Planning to purchase a 9/16th ratchet open ender.

Anyway - i have a small oil leak. I think I'll be in the market for another felt seal as I discarded mine in lieu of oil resistant gasket maker.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by dranoweb

Planning to purchase a 9/16th ratchet open ender.

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I doubt there will be enough space for that. Get your hands on a 9/16" propshaft tool.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...016/12/615.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dervish

I doubt there will be enough space for that. Get your hands on a 9/16" propshaft tool.

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I was just going to say that too. There isn't enough room for a normal ring spanner let alone a ratcheting one.

A thin wall spanner would go well with the propshaft tool.

There are these nifty ratcheting "open" end spanners now.

They fit where ratchet rings dont. But a propshaft tool seems more intelligent now I know they exist.

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It is so GOOD to have a driveshaft tool.

You can use a rattle gun and the shaft is off in 5 minutes.
Regards Philip A

Yeah I visited my good mate - a mechanic for hire, after work today and saw one in action. Definately adding one to the tool roll in the rear box.

Maybe a good milwauke battery rattle gun too. Costs about the same as a set of snapon ratchet open-enders.

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For mostly everything else I have these that live in the rear boxes, along with a few other essential goodies like a grease gun. Hmm sounds like a new topic idea...

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First up, many thanks to @dranoweb for this thread (and expertise/contributions from @Blknight.aus and others) - printed out the full thread and kept it handy while under my 1990 Perentie over the weekend attending to this very problem; loose flange to shaft nut giving the handbrake drum a good dousing of TC oil. Replaced the seal anyway since I'd bought a pair. However I feel like this will raise it's ugly head again given the state of the flange bolts and not having new nyloc nuts on hand, and also given I'm a new LR owner (of an old LR), and female (minimum genetically inherited mechanical knowledge)...

What are next steps for a more permanent solution?
Un-tack existing bolts and replace with 3/8" UNF (from what I have read)..?
Worth replacing flange nut as well, or only if she's pooped?
To felt washer + goo or not to felt washer, and just goo - I have read both opinions...
If the output flange body (576627?) is intact, best just to replace the shaft bolts/nuts?

Apologies if answers are already out there but I have searched...

Great thread, thank you very much. I am about to do the same and will be getting the double lipped seal FTC4939G but I am struggling to find the felt seal. Does anyone have the part number for this one?