Quote:
Originally Posted by cummo
give them a call and see if that part number matches up with the post above which is the VDO part number that the Land Rover have as the cross reference for that part.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cummo
give them a call and see if that part number matches up with the post above which is the VDO part number that the Land Rover have as the cross reference for that part.
uhhh guys..
its a perentie.. for the major service
is the top radiator hose hot, is the return from the radiator cold?
heres how you field test the cooling system.
blanket the radiator.
warm the engine up,
top hose hot, bottom hose a little cooler, temp gauge normal? heater working?
good. go drive it leave the blanket in place turn the heater fan off leave it set for hot air.
temperature gauge rising after about 5 minutes of driving? good.
turn the heater fan on flat out pull over remove the blanket, drive off. temp gauge coming down?
cooling system checked.
for the alt major service, replace the thermostat and pull and flush the radiator/rod it after you do a chemical flush of the system. Replace hoses as requried.
done.
This doesn't seem to be a VDO number?Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris078
This is good info, if it turns out to be correct.Quote:
Originally Posted by cummo
I'll be installing the VDO 320.002 sender on Saturday so fingers x'd it'll fit OK. The temp range is right, hex size right and has the correct pin connector. The probe length is the only unknown. If the probe length the is the same and the NPT thread correct then all should be good. I'll post up how it turns out.
Cheers, Dave
You should be fine Cummo.
I picked up mine from Land Rover today
It's got a LR sticker on it with AYG9603 and 668566-095-8448 on it.
It's in a VDO branded package with 320.002 on the packaging. Reckon you're on the money.
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excuse the terrible photos, my camera has pretty much died and that's the best picture it will take.
Went for the first run since putting the cooling system back together. New Isuzu 82-degree thermostat installed with jiggle/air bleed valve installed towards housing outlet, new VDO sender, radiator removed, flushed & pressure tested with top marks from the radiator guy. Block flushed up and down with air/water pressure gun, (clean as a whistle), 2 fills and dumps with distilled water, final fill with Nulon L/L coolant.
Warms up and stays relatively stable at what I interpret to be about 95 degrees. Hot water flow from the block via the thermostat seems to happen at about 90 a 92 on the gauge. Markedly different from the old arrangement where the gauge showed a pretty constant 80-degrees.
Logic tells me there should be no issues what with everything flushed and/or new. I'm thinking maybe the gauge earth; I do get a flicker on all gauges with the blinkers operating, but I thought that was normal anyway.
Maybe this is the new order of things and it is OK to run at this temperature. As usual all thoughts/suggestions appreciated.
Cheers, Dave
Few degrees higher than mine (normally around 87-88c or so) probably variances in the gauges rather than anything else.
at least it's more accurate than what it was.
Check the earth lead from the alternator and starter. The earth for most of the electrical system is ..... rudimentary at best in this car. It's a 4 gauge line from the starter back to the harness behind the fuse box and all the earths are simply soldered to that 4 gauge line.
<edit> the power to the system is much the same!
if you pull the cluster, it would be pretty easy to run a line from the battery to the cluster (you will be able to see that the earth wire there is shared between the gauges via a single post, just attach your additional line to that) to test.
I've been meaning to do the same thing for ages, maybe next weekend.
Seeing as I can't drive until I get this drivers seat fixed.
Seems warm, mine sits exactly on 82 under normal circumstances.Quote:
Originally Posted by cummo
Hi Chris. As my lack of electrics is legendary, I assume you mean run a temporary lead from the negative battery terminal direct to the common gauge earth in order to bypass the existing body earth? This in my mind (which is a dim place) may then show whether existing gauge earth is the problem. Hopefully I've interpreted you correctly. Dave
Before I delved into the spaghetti of wiring to find and check the temp gauge earth, I pulled the new thermostat out and did I a side-by-side comparison with the old one in a saucepan brought them up to boiling. Should have done it for the hell of it before I installed it. I did it a few times to make sure; old thermostat cracked open to let air bubbles through at 76-78 and opened visibly at 82 degrees; the new one cracked open at 88-89.
Not sure if the later opening thermostat is causing the continual higher operating temperature on the gauge; other than the new correct sender and coolant nothing else has changed. Additionally my understanding of thermostats is that they should work correct from day one; AFAIK there isn't a "bedding-in" period or the like following which they "loosen up".
Heading back to the Isuzu dealer tomorrow to discuss and possibly order in a replacement. Heading from Newcastle to KLR at Windsor on Thursday; may end up putting the old thermostat in for the trip.
Cheers, Dave