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Thread: Cooling System Sanity Check

  1. #1
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    Cooling System Sanity Check

    I am in the process of changing out the coolant in my GS 4x4, which as it happens is the first vehicle I've had with a cross flow radiator.
    First step was to give the system a flush using a proprietary radiator flush & clean then back in the shed to cool down a little before dumping the coolant.
    Then:-
    - Coolant dumped using bottom hose and block drain with the brass filler plug out. Coolant was very clean; no evidence of rust or scale
    - Top radiator hose inverted and distilled water poured down through the radiator till water ran clear
    - Bottom hose inverted and distilled water poured through water pump and block till water ran clear
    - Surge tank removed and flushed out
    - Drain closed, hoses back on
    System filled with distilled water to be run up to temperature and then drained and then whole sequence will be repeated with the plan being that any residual fluid in there will be either just distilled water or extremely dilute original coolant. The radiator will come out after the third flush to be taken to my local independent radiator guy for a check over for good measure.

    The motor has always ran just under the 80 degree mark no matter what it's doing or how the ambient air temperature is. I filled the system after flushing using a proprietary coolant funnel set-up so that the air could bleed out during filling, and filling would be done with a positive head of water. All OK; top hose eventually gets hot as the thermostat opens and the motor idles away till usual operating temperature is reached. What surprises me though is that the bottom hose eventually only gets and stays barely warm. The top hose and thermostat housing get respectably hot, but the bottom hose gets nowhere near as warm.

    I'm hoping there's nothing wrong in this, just that the cooling system is in good order and is working well, delivering cooler water water back to the block. The radiator core is not the original one - it appears to be a re-core - but is externally in good condition with no damaged fins etc. I will be installing a new genuine Isuzu thermostat as part of the final coolant fill so that I know it's benchmarked right, and I will then have a spare on hand for trips.

    If anyone thinks there is anything untoward with the way the cooling system as described above is working advice would be appreciated.

    Cheers, Dave

  2. #2
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    nope, for an idling engine that sounds about dead on the money.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
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  3. #3
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    Only thing that sounds slightly out to me is the 'runs just under 80c' comment.
    Should be about 10c hotter than that. It's an 82c thermostat.
    Obviously it's not overheating - you'd have fried it by now if it was.
    Leaves the temp sensor or the gauge as being incorrect.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris078 View Post
    It's an 82c thermostat.
    Is that starts to open at 82?C or is fully opened at 82?C?

  5. #5
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    as far as I know. Starts to open at 82c

    part # is 5137700301

    It's a wax thermostat, which according to Wikipedia will start opening at it's nominated temperature. In this case 82c.
    Mine sits at about 88c (if my gauge and sender are accurate. Who knows) when it's fully warmed up - which takes about 15-20 minutes.

  6. #6
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    Just a thought.
    My local NatRad quoted me $150 to drain, flush, refill, pressure test etc.

    Considering how much of a pest it is to drain/flush/fill the cooling system on the Perentie is, that is not bad value. Plus if they stuff up and get an air-lock when they re-fill it, that's on them and not you.

    Might be worth considering.

  7. #7
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    Agree with Chris about temperature, but I reckon the thermostat is opening too soon. I had the same problem, it would sit a touch under 80 with a radiator muff and under load.

    A new thermostat was an easy fix and it now sits in the green (or is it blue?) all the time.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by BadCo. View Post
    Agree with Chris about temperature, but I reckon the thermostat is opening too soon. I had the same problem, it would sit a touch under 80 with a radiator muff and under load.

    A new thermostat was an easy fix and it now sits in the green (or is it blue?) all the time.

    If the thermostat is opening too soon, it should still get up to temperature eventually shouldn't it? - sitting around 88c or so.

    I would have thought that would indicate a fault with the temp sender or gauge, rather than the thermostat. Interesting that changing the thermostat fixed your problem.
    Maybe you had some gunk on the sender and when you changed the thermostat, you cleared it out?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris078 View Post
    If the thermostat is opening too soon, it should still get up to temperature eventually shouldn't it? - sitting around 88c or so.
    Not if it is fully open well under 80c?

  10. #10
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    I suppose if you're just idling it wouldn't get there. If you're driving it, It should get to full temp, just take an extra few minutes.

    That is just my personal opinion. I could very well be wrong.

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