Thread: Excessive oil from CCV

Originally Posted by Chris078

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Also. Just once yesterday when I was sitting at the lights, the clutch pedal pushed down to about halfway before it loaded up. Hasn't done it since, but I'll take that as an indication that the master or slave is about to go?

Spot on. See how much fluid is in the reservoir. If it is not down, probably the m/c, if it is down, see if you can see where it is going. Check the wading plug on the clutch housing.

John

Originally Posted by Chris078

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Any suggestions as to what might be wrong?

It seems I need a new camera too:
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Not sure what a CCV is, but likely sources of oil are the differential pinion seal and the oil feed or drain to the alternator. (What sort of oil is it? EP oil has a distinctive smell.) And the engine oil level is probably not very useful - it takes very little oil to make a mess!

I don't think you necessarily need a new camera - perhaps a new photographer?

John

Ccv - crank case ventilator.


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Originally Posted by JDNSW

Not sure what a CCV is, but likely sources of oil are the differential pinion seal and the oil feed or drain to the alternator. (What sort of oil is it? EP oil has a distinctive smell.) And the engine oil level is probably not very useful - it takes very little oil to make a mess!

I don't think you necessarily need a new camera - perhaps a new photographer?

John

CCV - Crank case Vent. sometimes called the PCV.

It's that unit that sits above the exhaust manifold and has 2, 1" pipes running from it. 1 goes to the crankcase, the other goes down and ends just above the winch shaft. that's the source of the oil.

Camera is kaput. All that purple should not be there.

Originally Posted by JDNSW

Spot on. See how much fluid is in the reservoir. If it is not down, probably the m/c, if it is down, see if you can see where it is going. Check the wading plug on the clutch housing.

John

It's about 1 cm below the top. Think that's about where it should be.
that's annoying. I only had it flushed a couple of months ago.

Guess my mechanic and Landybitz (Justin) will be getting more money out of me. I know you're supposed to replace both at the same time.
It it worth paying the extra $50 for the AP Lockheed slave over the cheapie ($40)slave?

Not uncommon to get oil from the CCV, and not indicative of a problem. Mine has done it for 500,000km!

Some people fit gadgets to catch the oil blown out. I can't think of the name at the moment.

Slave cylinder - for $10 I would be inclined to get the name brand one over the cheapie, but be aware that it may in fact be the identical part from the same factory in a different box.

If you want to avoid future problems, get the old cylinder stainless steel sleeved, and be ready to fit it at the first sign of trouble or even before. Same with the m/c.

Most problems with clutch (and brake) hydraulics, are the result of water being absorbed from the air by the fluid and corroding the bore of the cylinder. Worse problem on the coast.

John

It's more an issue that suddenly it's blowing much more oil out than it used to.



It's an extra $50 for the genuine one. $90 for a lockheed vs $40 for the cheapie.
I'm still inclined to get the expensive one.
Kinda funny that they genuine master only costs $65!

Have to ring Justin today and order them.

Originally Posted by Chris078

It's more an issue that suddenly it's blowing much more oil out than it used to.



It's an extra $50 for the genuine one. $90 for a lockheed vs $40 for the cheapie.
I'm still inclined to get the expensive one.
Kinda funny that they genuine master only costs $65!

Have to ring Justin today and order them.

I misunderstood your post. I thought you meant $50 vs $40, not $50 more. At that sort of difference I would use the cheaper one - and as I said, get the one you pull out SS sleeved and keep it on hand for next time (its a while since I had one done, but from memory it was around the $90 mark, although that was actually a m/c).

Johnh