Thread: Ex ADF LT95A gearboxes

Originally Posted by rar110

You're not doing a very good job at being retired. 😄

Agreed, whenever I call him he's at work or at least busy....

No other symptoms just jumps out of first gear low range going down steep hills.

..Some still have the earlier type intermediate shaft assembly bits which are more prone to jumping out of gear if not set up correctly and and all 3 have had a finger tight intermediate shaft bolt torque setting. I.E finger tight instead of torqued to 125 ft/lb. I would urge anyone who has a perentie to check these. Easy enough to check. If your gear lever moves back/forward when you accelerate/decelerate in 3rd or 4th gear it indicates movement in the spigot shaft which is most likely the lock tabs bent on assembly.
Check the transfer case for sloppiness, it could be the centre diff thrust washers/gears or the input shaft gear/splines - if your pull the rear cover or the 3rd axle drive off (6X6 only)you can see if it's the gear/splines by rotating the shaft and watching the play or sloppiness.
Check the torque setting on the intermediate shaft bolt. It WILL result in jumping out of gear and eventual failure of the complete shaft if not torqued correctly.


Quick question about this part. Noticed this morning on my way to work that in 3rd gear the lever moves back/forth a little when accelerating. Maybe 1cm total. Doesn't appear to do it in 4th, only 3rd.
It that something to be expected on a 150K box (according to the log, this box is original). No other symptoms really.

Originally Posted by Chris078

..Some still have the earlier type intermediate shaft assembly bits which are more prone to jumping out of gear if not set up correctly and and all 3 have had a finger tight intermediate shaft bolt torque setting. I.E finger tight instead of torqued to 125 ft/lb. I would urge anyone who has a perentie to check these. Easy enough to check. If your gear lever moves back/forward when you accelerate/decelerate in 3rd or 4th gear it indicates movement in the spigot shaft which is most likely the lock tabs bent on assembly.
Check the transfer case for sloppiness, it could be the centre diff thrust washers/gears or the input shaft gear/splines - if your pull the rear cover or the 3rd axle drive off (6X6 only)you can see if it's the gear/splines by rotating the shaft and watching the play or sloppiness.
Check the torque setting on the intermediate shaft bolt. It WILL result in jumping out of gear and eventual failure of the complete shaft if not torqued correctly.


Quick question about this part. Noticed this morning on my way to work that in 3rd gear the lever moves back/forth a little when accelerating. Maybe 1cm total. Doesn't appear to do it in 4th, only 3rd.
It that something to be expected on a 150K box (according to the log, this box is original). No other symptoms really.

Quite possible Chris, Most of them have had a pretty hard life at 150k and there is probably some wear in the thrusts giving that movement you have.

How much should i expect to pay for a rebuilt unit or to have one rebuilt and installed properly? New clutch and all. Thanks.

Originally Posted by Outback

How much should i expect to pay for a rebuilt unit or to have one rebuilt and installed properly? New clutch and all. Thanks.

Depends on what has to be replaced. Anywhere between 3 - 10K at a guestimate!

assuming the case is all good and you have to replace everything... with all the smart to replace while your at it bits..

thats $6k in parts.

Originally Posted by Outback

How much should i expect to pay for a rebuilt unit or to have one rebuilt and installed properly? New clutch and all. Thanks.

Actually dropped into Rover Care in Slacks Creek yesterday. Paul there has a current contract to re-build the boxes for the military. Asked him about price. A full re-build using all genuine Land Rover parts = 13-15k!
Luckily you normally will not have to replace everything, which vastly reduces the price.
Remember too, that's the box only, the transfer case is a whole additional hit to the wallet.


A clutch kit (from reading here) will run you $700-1000.
A clutch job alone is a $2000 job parts and labor.