Having done a bit more exploring, i've discovered it's not the tarp that's leaking, but seems to be the drivers door somewhere. Water is pooling in the footwell and one of the bolts holding the door top / window frame on was dripping into the door bin, which in turn is quite happily rusting the bottom of the door out.
But where does that water actually come from - obviously there's no point silicon sealing the bolt as that'll just stop water heading downwards. Main culprits appear to be the seal around the window or above the door where it isn't sitting properly.
I'd say this is probably one of those design flaw things that will never fully be fixed, but i'd be intrigued to hear what others have done to make the problem less of an issue.
Given my Perentie is spending a Melbourne winter out in the cold and wet, i'd like to make it through to next year without a rusted floorpan and/or door. The passenger door is absolutely fine, but I reckon that's because it is the more sheltered side based on where I park...
In other news, the Camperover got another overnight outing to Balnarring, with a slightly modified storage locker - cut a bit off the back sheet of ply and hinged it (couldn't find my circular saw so the jigsaw cut was a little bit wonky - still worked though), making a perfect space for the esky and fire pit...
very common for the door seal to leak, even when new.
Also the vent seal and windscreen seals.
On mine you can see where they have filled in the places where the door seal doesn't fit properly with some black, silicone like goo.
Need to work out what that is for when I replace my door seal.
Lanolin and de-odorized fish oil are your best friends in the fight against rust.
You could take up the same remedy that was employed by Douglas DC-3 / Dakota pilots - wear your raincoat back to front when it rains . It was only fuselage pressurisation in later designs that cured this.
Now, if there was a way to pressurise a Perentie ....
Take a look at the seal between the door top and the door bottom. There is a cut out in the seal that is supposed to run to the outside, however you often find that they run to the inside. If they run inside, turn them over so they run outside. (Some butyl-mastic sealer between the door bottom and seal plus the door top and seal along the inside border will add additional sealing.*)
If you want you can also fit additional seals with thick "O" rings or tight fitting rubber washers around the bolts directly on top of the door capping.
BTW: if you remove the door tops, de-rust and treat the bolts and tubes in the door tops, then insert them with liberal amounts of grease to reduce further corrosion.
BTW 2: If you think there is any rust in the inside of the door bottom frame/s, get some "Penetrene" in the aerosol can and drill some small holes so you can squirt the Penetrene inside the frame using the supplied nozzel. If you drill the holes the correct size, you can use the plugs from the end of Bic Biro pens to re-seal the holes.
* I prefer butyl-rubber/butyl-mastic sealant over silicone sealants in this situation. I also use butyl-mastic when re-fitting floor and body panels.
You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.
Much appreciated to all of you, I shall be having a crack at one, some, many or all of these suggestions in the coming weeks. In the meantime, and after this evening's windy storms, a towel and bucket seem to have assisted in lessening the effects of water ingress!
I've dug out the logbooks to see when or if any have been replaced over the time mine was in army service but I think most will probably get done once I buy them. Am going over to the UK in July so might end up bringing back some parts in my suitcase having had them sent to the parents' place...
Fossicker
. It was only fuselage pressurisation in later designs that cured this.
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