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In response to master, ill be replacing both again soon after my return, but my budget and time has been eaten by pinion seal replacement.
also they are surprisingly hard to find in a town with 6 auto parts stores.
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Why don't you save some money and do the pinion seal yourself. It's pretty easy and you can do it in a couple of hours easily. If you are not sure I can help you through it. You might be able to afford the new M/C if you do it yourself.:) Let me know if you need help with obtaining parts - I can get them to you within a few days, even from here. Cheers...Brain
so can anyone lend any advice on how not to loose the push rod when removing/fitting the slave cylinder?
I'm looking at diagrams, and it looks like the plastic clip on the work cup is easy to break.
is this just a case of patience and minimal force?
It's not that hard, when you undo the 2 13mm studs that hold the slave onto the flywheel housing move it out a bit until you can see the pushrod, grab it with your fingers or long nosed pliers and then withdraw the slave cylinder. The plastic clip that holds the pushrod onto the the clutch fork is pretty tough and should be OK.Quote:
Originally Posted by dranoweb
Quote:
Originally Posted by dranoweb
Why don't you change gears........easy enough and a good skill to have up your sleeve......just need to revs right
I drove my 110 from cooma 60th to Brisbane without a clutch
Also drove an army 6x6 from Brisbane to Adelaide only using to clutch to take off and stop.........boredom sets in pretty quick following a convoy barely doing 80km/hr......I one the challenge.
It needs to survive 4 days and then the whole lot is getting replaced with no expense spared.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bearman
I should mention that I'm getting the pinion clearance adjusted too, to fix the backlash. No job for an amature.
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Well work is only a couple of k's and while i'm not bad at matching revs, a stone cold box doesn't help.Quote:
Originally Posted by weeds
I didn't get a perentie to win races, but maccas drive through without a clutch was "fun" to say the least.
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Pretty close to what I guessed.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bearman
thanks heaps, might be the key to the whole job.
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Backlash in the rear diff is not caused by the pinion flange but the culprit is usually drive flanges or side gear thrust washers, more often drive flange wear. When replacing the pinion seal all you have to do is ensure the nut is retightened to the same position.Quote:
Originally Posted by dranoweb
This point is exactly why I'm having someone else do that bit.
I couldn't source crush tubes for it, and I understand that's a normal work around.
To specify more correctly - I'm getting the backlash "checked and adjusted if neccesary" by a much more experienced individual.
It's predominantly about time not skill.
I work full time and run a business on the side, my services have been in very high demand of late, and my distant daughter's birthday is looming, hence the impending travel.
I only have a small gap in work to exploit and I've been flat out making sure i have the essential emergency gear on board, like you know spare tire and jack etc.
I'm pretty worn out of weeks of knocking off at 5 and working like a headless chook till dark and pouring my wages into this thing.
In short, I'm sore, tired and just want to get to my destination without major issue.
in my experience this mentality breeds shortcuts, and causes deadly mistakes.
Exactly the time to pay an expert.
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