Thread: Perentie Clutch bleed procedure.

Why don't you save some money and do the pinion seal yourself. It's pretty easy and you can do it in a couple of hours easily. If you are not sure I can help you through it. You might be able to afford the new M/C if you do it yourself. Let me know if you need help with obtaining parts - I can get them to you within a few days, even from here. Cheers...Brain

so can anyone lend any advice on how not to loose the push rod when removing/fitting the slave cylinder?

I'm looking at diagrams, and it looks like the plastic clip on the work cup is easy to break.

is this just a case of patience and minimal force?

Originally Posted by dranoweb

so can anyone lend any advice on how not to loose the push rod when removing/fitting the slave cylinder?

I'm looking at diagrams, and it looks like the plastic clip on the work cup is easy to break.

is this just a case of patience and minimal force?

It's not that hard, when you undo the 2 13mm studs that hold the slave onto the flywheel housing move it out a bit until you can see the pushrod, grab it with your fingers or long nosed pliers and then withdraw the slave cylinder. The plastic clip that holds the pushrod onto the the clutch fork is pretty tough and should be OK.

Originally Posted by dranoweb

So... I drove all the way to work in 2nd today as I suddenly found myself with a barely usable clutch and no fluid in the resivoir.

What size brake line spanner do I need,

And more importantly, any tips on bleeding/diagnosing the clutch?

Sent from my E6653 using AULRO mobile app

Why don't you change gears........easy enough and a good skill to have up your sleeve......just need to revs right

I drove my 110 from cooma 60th to Brisbane without a clutch

Also drove an army 6x6 from Brisbane to Adelaide only using to clutch to take off and stop.........boredom sets in pretty quick following a convoy barely doing 80km/hr......I one the challenge.

Originally Posted by Bearman

Why don't you save some money and do the pinion seal yourself. It's pretty easy and you can do it in a couple of hours easily. If you are not sure I can help you through it. You might be able to afford the new M/C if you do it yourself. Let me know if you need help with obtaining parts - I can get them to you within a few days, even from here. Cheers...Brain

It needs to survive 4 days and then the whole lot is getting replaced with no expense spared.

I should mention that I'm getting the pinion clearance adjusted too, to fix the backlash. No job for an amature.

Sent from my E6653 using AULRO mobile app

Originally Posted by weeds

Why don't you change gears........easy enough and a good skill to have up your sleeve......just need to revs right

I drove my 110 from cooma 60th to Brisbane without a clutch

Also drove an army 6x6 from Brisbane to Adelaide only using to clutch to take off and stop.........boredom sets in pretty quick following a convoy barely doing 80km/hr......I one the challenge.

Well work is only a couple of k's and while i'm not bad at matching revs, a stone cold box doesn't help.

I didn't get a perentie to win races, but maccas drive through without a clutch was "fun" to say the least.

Sent from my E6653 using AULRO mobile app

Originally Posted by Bearman

It's not that hard, when you undo the 2 13mm studs that hold the slave onto the flywheel housing move it out a bit until you can see the pushrod, grab it with your fingers or long nosed pliers and then withdraw the slave cylinder. The plastic clip that holds the pushrod onto the the clutch fork is pretty tough and should be OK.

Pretty close to what I guessed.
thanks heaps, might be the key to the whole job.

Sent from my E6653 using AULRO mobile app

Originally Posted by dranoweb

It needs to survive 4 days and then the whole lot is getting replaced with no expense spared.

I should mention that I'm getting the pinion clearance adjusted too, to fix the backlash. No job for an amature.

Sent from my E6653 using AULRO mobile app

Backlash in the rear diff is not caused by the pinion flange but the culprit is usually drive flanges or side gear thrust washers, more often drive flange wear. When replacing the pinion seal all you have to do is ensure the nut is retightened to the same position.