Thread: Perentie 6x6 8,000lb winch

You could try removing the PTO cover; which - confusingly in this instance - is not where the PTO is, but is the round one on the rear of the transfer case at the top. With this off, you should be able to see if you have the chain in place that drives the PTO drive unit.

first thing to check is the actuation arm. sometimes the cable is out of adjustment and wont allow you to pull it into full engagement.

next thing to check is the connection at the output of the PTO.

the UJ yoke slides over the output shaft, if its not secured or installed properly the PTO output will spin inside the yoke.


snapped chains are uncommon, if its been over abused and the limiter is slipping then you'll hear a rattling noise as the torque limiter slips.

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

first thing to check is the actuation arm. sometimes the cable is out of adjustment and wont allow you to pull it into full engagement.

next thing to check is the connection at the output of the PTO.

the UJ yoke slides over the output shaft, if its not secured or installed properly the PTO output will spin inside the yoke.


snapped chains are uncommon, if its been over abused and the limiter is slipping then you'll hear a rattling noise as the torque limiter slips.

Hi again

I now have the accusation shaft driving the PTO, and the PTO shaft turning. I then looked at the yoke where the PTO shaft attaches to the winch itself, and discovered that the yoke is turning on the winch drive coupling, and that there is a threaded hole on the outer housing of the yoke coupling which I imagine is for a shear pin to prevent more significant damage to the winch/pto in the event of misuse!

Once I resolve that issue, I am left with the dog lever arm not vertical, and it would appear because of its proximity to one of the bull bar upright brackets, it will knock against this bracket before being vertical as instructed in the winch operation instructions inside the cab.

On the other 6x6 I have the length of steel rod which the dog lever is constructed of, is less distance horizontally between the winch housing no the bend to vertical, therefore clearing the bull bar upright bracket by about half a centimeter!

I do have photos of the two 6x6' winch dog levers showing the differences but not sure how pics are posted in this site, if allowed at all!

I look forward to your comments.

Cheers, Jack

I didn't realize the army one had sheer pins fitted......not that I ever removed one. I figured the torque limiter was the protection.

From memory the sheer pin is brass......could be wrong.

I always keep meaning to have a close look at mine (civvie) and arrange a spare sheer pin.

update:

You are quite correct, weeds.

It turns out after having another. loser inspection is morning in better light that the outer yoke housing is NOT turning on the winch shaft.
There is in fact a keyway on the shaft, and the threaded hole looks like it's for a grease nipple though I haven't sized it yet.

So the winch operation is such that I have:
1) PTO control cable engagement of the accuation lever for the PTO
2) the PTO driving the PTO shaft to the winch

however, I can't move the dog lever to the vertical position either because it is either:
a) jammed in the "IN" position, or
b) the roller frame is located too close to the dog lever to allow it to move into the vertical position

The problem with (b) is that it doesn't look like the dog lever is in any new position than it always has been I.e. no evidence of lack of paint which might enidicate that it's out further than it should be even though that does appear to be the case when compared with the other 6x6.

End Result:
I have operation of the winch mechanics right upwind itself...but the dog lever and winch don't seem to work.

Cheers, Jack

On mine.....

The UJ is keyed the the input shaft on the winch


The other end of the UJ has a sheer pin...maybe check both ends. Just looked at mine and it looks copper ish


Re: lever position,
- vertical is disengaged
- On an angle pointing toward the outer of the car bull bar upright is engaged

I can only assume the bit of metal welded on to the lever is to keep the dog clutch disengaged and give the operator something to lift up to engage. These handles were never I place when I served and had a 6x6 GMV.

To engage you need to push (hold pressure) on the lever toward the outside of car while turning the drum until the dog clutch engages.

I only drove through burpengary an 1hr ago...I could have dropped in.

The military units don't have shear pins, over-torque protection is built in to the PTO unit as suspected. The winch will only slip into the engaged position - lever less vertical as Weeds said - when the winch drum is in one of two positions, both 180 degrees from each other. If you want to engage the winch, pull the cable out with a bit of pressure on the lever towards the driver's side of the vehicle, it will slip in when the drum reaches the correct orientation.