ARN: 49057 FFR AKA "Rango"

There is much discussion on here and REMLR already about tow bars.
I think someone had a 3.5t ball fitted.

Have a browse and a search.

Start here:
3500kg ADR towbar
This one addresses the known weak points.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mick_Marsh

That is the Army rating and, I believe, the legal rating.
Remember, the Perentie chassis is not a 110 chassis. (Note, the Perentie is pre Defender so is not a Defender either.) There are areas in a Perentie chassis that are weaker than a 110 so do not use the 110 specs as a guide.
If you want to tow more, get an engineered towbar fitted.

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Hi Mick

I am curious about where these weaker areas are. I would think that the Perentie rear crossmember is likely stronger than a Defender, with the possible questionable part (from a tow rating perspective) being the point where the RHS extension is connected to the original chassis at the rear spring towers, Is this the area you were referring to?

Edit: After looking at the above link, I suspect the issue is not the comparitive strength of the chassis, but the fact that the defender chassis provides for additonal mounting points on the chassis rails, which is necessary for the higher rating.
I would put money on a defender chassis failing before a Perentie chassis if both were load tested on a test rig, with the load applied only at the pintle mounting points.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mark2

Hi Mick

I am curious about where these weaker areas are. I would think that the Perentie rear crossmember is likely stronger than a Defender, with the possible questionable part (from a tow rating perspective) being the point where the RHS extension is connected to the original chassis at the rear spring towers, Is this the area you were referring to?

Edit: After looking at the above link, I suspect the issue is not the comparitive strength of the chassis, but the fact that the defender chassis provides for additonal mounting points on the chassis rails, which is necessary for the higher rating.
I would put money on a defender chassis failing before a Perentie chassis if both were load tested on a test rig, with the load applied only at the pintle mounting points.

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The "weak" point is where the chassis extensions (smaller than the original rails) connect to the rear cross member.
That is not to say it's the only weak point.
Another area to look at is where the chains attach to the rear cross member. The ADF wanted the 4x4 to tow a certain amount and these things were designed to tow that amount. If you want to tow outside that limit, you need to practice due diligence and check the design is capable of it or accept the risk.

I would look at an aftermarket or home build tow bar for towing extra weight.
Is the reason the chassis has smaller rails at the rear due to the spare tyre?

Put air into the spare a few days ago, and leaked heavily.
Took the spare to the local tyre shop and the result was a leaf was left in there, rubbing against the tyre. It looked like a fossil you would find in a rock.
Total cost $38, really happy with that and they got the job done quickly too.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Landy Smurf

Is the reason the chassis has smaller rails at the rear due to the spare tyre?

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Yes. I guess stowing the spare was considered more important than towing heavy loads.

Finally got Rango home to meet the rest of the gang.
I have got some of the items ready for a service.
I removed the rear seats.
Removed the power box for the radio equipment.
I need to remove the generator and cables associated with it.
I am keeping everything for that one day restoration.
I am averaging 10.5L/100Km, which I am very happy with.
When I was moving from Wingham to home, I found the back very useful but also a little painful as it wasn't flat.
Due to me moving again in a few weeks, I made a temporary fitout.
It is no where near perfect and if I was going to do it again I would made lots of changes and take more care. However, I went for cheap, easy, removable.
Attachment 134027
Attachment 134028
Attachment 134029
Attachment 134030

I was considering getting a swag but thought I would try this out first.
Attachment 134031
As you can see there is not much room left after putting a double mattress in.
Attachment 134032
So I was thinking of some storage like these.
Attachment 134033
Attachment 134034

Added some tools to the bonnet.
Did some work to the back but will have to wait for photos.
Attachment 137455
Attachment 137456

I am going to be getting some electrical equipment this weekend.
The items I am adding are as follows;
1. LED light for cab
2. LED light for cargo area
3. LED light for the rear-outside
4. At least 2 cigarette outlets
5. At least 1 outlet for ENGEL fridge
6.At least 2 sets of USB outlets- to cater for 2 phones, Bluetooth speaker, GoPro
7. I have a air compressor which has alligator clips- thinking of changing to a 12V/cigarette or Anderson plug, any ideas?
I have seen a few people have done LED strip lighting under the bonnet, is there any issues with this, for example rattling or heat?
Is this going over the top and would I be better off investing in a portable LED light that has a hook and magnet on it?

I am trying to decide whether or not to do a fuse box/block.
I am thinking of making a center console box which can house the fuses/circuit breakers, wires, switches, outlets.
Should I keep all the switches in one place- near the drivers seat?
Any recommendations on where to get materials/equipment from including the LED bars.

Any other tips or recommendations are most welcome.