Thread: Break down in the east link tunnel today.

Haha,, decisions decisions 😳

You could whilst it’s very low in fuel ⛽️ take the unit out and adjust it. Don’t know. If it’s a “float” type or not though 🧐

It could be the sender unit or a big dent in the bottom of the fuel tank that is causing the false reading on your fuel gauge
, You should have listned to the ghost.

Sorry you had that happen, but fuel gauges can be untrustworthy.

It can be as simple as a buildup of electrical resistance in the gauge system (clean all the wiring connections).

So it can be an idea to keep a track of your fill records. Either by resetting the odo at each refill (to full) or by keeping a note.

I trust you know the fuel system bleeding procedure and get access to appropriate 14mm & 17mm spanners (flare nut spanners are good).

If you have trouble bleeding/starting it then you have to consider the following.

There are 3 common (but quite infrequent) blockable locations in the fuel system, the sedimenter, the replaceable fuel filter and the fine cleanable gauze filter at the base of the fuel distribution pump.

In the latter part of its service life it may not have been used much and may have accumulated a bit of debris in the system, although reading your posts indicates that you seem to have had a good run with it for quite a few kms, so I hope you only have to bleed it.

Let's know how you get on.

Originally Posted by 87County

Sorry you had that happen, but fuel gauges can be untrustworthy.

It can be as simple as a buildup of electrical resistance in the gauge system (clean all the wiring connections).

So it can be an idea to keep a track of your fill records. Either by resetting the odo at each refill (to full) or by keeping a note.

I trust you know the fuel system bleeding procedure and get access to appropriate 14mm & 17mm spanners (flare nut spanners are good).

If you have trouble bleeding/starting it then you have to consider the following.

There are 3 common (but quite infrequent) blockable locations in the fuel system, the sedimenter, the replaceable fuel filter and the fine cleanable gauze filter at the base of the fuel distribution pump.

In the latter part of its service life it may not have been used much and may have accumulated a bit of debris in the system, although reading your posts indicates that you seem to have had a good run with it for quite a few kms, so I hope you only have to bleed it.

Let's know how you get on.

i think your correct about the latter part of its service life that's the thoughts I had regarding the fact it had 99000 km on it when I picked it up. Thought that might of meant something.

The fuel filter was changed as soon as I got her back to Melbourne and looked new albiet some crud stuck in it. (I'm guessing from ride home) The "water catch" was also checked.

i possess only a very basic level of mechanical knowledge regarding cars but very much enjoy reading and learning and have high hopes that this car will take those basic skills to next level.

i know how to bleed the first points in front of the injectors but have never bleed the injectors themselves on a diesel car.

Bout to study the procedure now.

Luckily I have a couple of mechanic freinds who in exchange for some plumbing in the future I'm sure will be able to help this learning along.

I watched a video on fuel system diagnosis and how the sender unit works last night will hopefully have it sorted today. Pretty sure she just giving s false reading and is empty.

After driving a gas ford with a dodgy reading I really don't want to run out again Petrol running out is much less of a problem

Will keep thou in the loop thankyou for that.

Ok now I understand the whole bleeding procedure not just how to bleed above the filter. (love YouTube).

Originally Posted by auslizard

Ok now I understand the whole bleeding procedure not just how to bleed above the filter. (love YouTube).

As many will tell you, LandRover have been making mechanics out of drivers for 70 years.

If you mean the small gauze under the pump - it is straightforward but a little awkward. Stuff some rag in the engine mount below the pump to avoid having things fall into the mount.
There's a banjo bolt (needing a small 17mm ring spanner) on the fuel line just above the engine mount which holds a small plastic & gauze filter than you can clean.

You may have to bleed the system after reassembly.

I'm sure there would be thread on it in the Isuzu section of this forum if you search.

There's a bit about it on remlr (see post#12 of this thread) : Engine cut out while on the freeway

Also: Transfer Pump Filter

Well 20 litres of jerried diesel later and a bleed she was up and going. Must be a problem with the gauge or sender unit I would believe. Bit short of time next couple of days and I need her on the road asap as I am down to one car for the time being so have handed her over to one of my favourite people in the world Mark my mechanic. She has key start now too but only the drivers side door barrel would fit as someone had tampered around the other side (not sure what they were up to but yeah). Will just lock and unlock manually for passengers who I intend to keep to a minimum anyways I'm sure the boys will be able to handle waiting ten seconds.

thanks to all that rendered advice and knowledge I will keep the thread posted regarding the final outcome tommorow.

On on a side note the roadworthy guy had told my mechanic he had never seen a 110 so "dry" which I'm guessing means lacking in rust? Got to be a good thing I guess.

Originally Posted by auslizard

On on a side note the roadworthy guy had told my mechanic he had never seen a 110 so "dry" which I'm guessing means lacking in rust? Got to be a good thing I guess.

Probably dosnt have 3 inches of oil, grease and grime buildup all over well.....everything lol. I got pulled up in the disco, had to wash it all down for my RWC I was like you joking right? But he was an honest, stubborn Indian fella so I had too.
Cheers Jim