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IMHO......
There is way too much thinking going on here for a tractor engine with a cast iron block and head....
As others have suggested, whatever diesel oil is on special, be that 5W40, 10W40, 15W40 all in a semi synthetic.
Change 6 monthly or 10K, dont forget the fuel and air filters.
Ok... but heres the question then. rick suggested trucks run 100,000km on the ESP 1. So why would you get oil that has to be changed every 10,000 if you can get an oil that lasts for 50,000+ before having to muck around with it?Quote:
Originally Posted by DazzaTD5
Regular services cost $300-$400. Oil change every 10,000 = $1200-$1600 every 40,000km.
If a $300 oil over a $100 oil lasts 40,000km absolute minimum, thats 3-400 for 1 service and thats it for the same 40,000km it cost near 1500 before.
So just trying to gauge a few things here
There's typically also a calendar interval with oil changes, and most manufacturers recommend more frequent changes in eg dusty conditions.
A truck thats getting 100k change intervals will likely be doing that distance in a few months, and all on-road. Personally I only do about 10k a year in the landy. No way I'm only doing an oil change every 10 years.
The same oil in different engines/vehicles/environments will have a different lifespan, so unless you're doing testing as Rick suggested earlier its just a guess as to whether you can actually run an expensive oil for longer before changing.
I've got the truck type Isuzu twin filters (full flow + bypass) on my turbo'd 4bd1, and I change filters and oil around 10k using Castrol RX Super 15w40.
The NPR trucks with that filter setup had a 12k change interval, so I'm not panicked if circumstances push me out a few thousand km's over my normal 10k.
I'm not quite sure what you mean by a typical service costing $3-400. RX Super costs me $100 for 20L (so about $40 for 8L change), fuel and oil filters around $50 and even with an air filter as well you'd be lucky to get to $150 total.
Steve
*If owners want to do 50K oil changes, or never, its their choice.
*If owners want to believe marketing label BS thats also their choice.
*Also note that such labels as "full synthetic" are not a recognised standard or specification, its simply a marketing term.
*There is LOTS of info on AULRO or discussions at least on oil, its properties, and how/when it should be changed.
Why anyone would want to leave oil in their light vehicle for 30, 40, 50K I don't know
Also interesting that the ADF specified 10k km oil changes with filter for the Perentie's regardless of NA or T.
Castrol RX Super and Isuzu filter at 10k km or 12 month intervals sounds good to me.
But that just me. As Dazza said each to their own.
The only reason you would change it much later is because the oil is still doing its job. Thats the whole point to "full synthetics". Why change it early if it is still good? waste of money.
How long ago did ADF specify 10k/12m, in the 1990s when oil technology was nowhere near what it is today?
I understand everyone can do what they want, all im trying to work out is, why would you want to change it that frequent if you can buy oil that will go 4x the distance before having to change it? Its less work and cost.
So a trip around australia which can clock up 10,000 km in 1 go I would need to do a full oil/filter change wherever I am at the time of the trip based on the 10k?
And if a lot of dirt driving is done, would it still be 10k or less?
The service intervals are still current AFAIK because Perenties are still in service
The service interval would take into account all driving conditions
Yes you would have to change oil several times on a long trip but if you take the filters with you it’s only the cost of the oil and any mechanic could do it
I recently changed oil in Tassie on a trip at a small town and he only charged me $150 incl the oil! Bargain!
As with a lot of oil threads this will go round in circles.
If you do a search there are some really good threads on, as I said earlier oils, tech, etc etc.
Again personally if I had just done a 10K stint in one hit, I would be itching to change the oil and filters.
With customers vehicles, I'm not trying to get a long service life out of the engine oil, I'm trying to get a long service life out of the engine.
All said and done engine oil is cheaper than engine replacement, take that statement as you wish.
I'll be genuinely interested in what you decide to do G.man. Particularly if you end up doing oil sampling which IMO is the only way to truly know what condition the oil is in.
My gut feel is that if you run a fully synthetic in a 4bd1/t the oil is going to need changing due to being full of soot and dirt before the oil itself is stuffed - but I don't have any data to back that up.
And just to show that I'm not anti-synth or stuck in the dark ages due to inability to change, I run a full synth in my LT95 gearbox.
No it doesn't need it, and its nothing to do with cost - I just HATE changing the gearbox oil so it pretty much stays in there until I feel like changing it, I think it needs changing, or it suffers an external event that forces a change (seal replacement etc).
I'm comfortable that even if it breaks down to only being half as good as it was when it was first put in its still going to be better than good mineral engine oil, and since its not subject to the same crud accumulation as a diesel engine I'm OK that it will be the oil breakdown that controls its life rather than other factors.
Would I do the same in a highly stressed manual trans or expensive auto trans - likely not.
Would I do the same in a weekend play toy that was likely to get regularly drowned - definitely not. I'd run cheap and change often to keep it clean.
Good luck with whichever way you go. In the end its only you that has to be comfortable with whatever you decide.
Steve
In my perentie, the engine sounds smoother after an oil change. I also fitted a centrifuge to help clean the oil. The 4BD1 is a dirty motor by modern standards. There’s a lot of soot suspended in the oil by the 10k km interval. The oil is probably still viable but I wouldn’t leave it longer.
Also its pretty humid in Oz. So potential for moisture build up in oil.