4bd1 (or later 4bd1-T) Oil - M1 Delvac?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by rar110

........

Also its pretty humid in Oz. So potential for moisture build up in oil.

---

In view of the fact that most of Australia is arid by world standards, and a large part of Australia is in the grip of possibly the worst drought in history, that is a pretty bold statement! I do agree that Brisbane (and coastal parts from about Melbourne to Cairns) does tend to be humid, but the vast majority of Australia is not.

And moisture buildup does not normally happen in oil even in humid climates unless the engine is used infrequently and/or never reaches operating temperature for any length of time. Once the engine is at normal operating temperature, moisture is rapidly evaporated from the oil.

Did you read the Loaded4x4 link I posted?

I wrote it for the last issue specifically about tailoring oil change intervals from the recommended service interval and how they often need to be reduced.

Have a read of it, then come back and ask questions.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by JDNSW

In view of the fact that most of Australia is arid by world standards, and a large part of Australia is in the grip of possibly the worst drought in history, that is a pretty bold statement! I do agree that Brisbane (and coastal parts from about Melbourne to Cairns) does tend to be humid, but the vast majority of Australia is not.

And moisture buildup does not normally happen in oil even in humid climates unless the engine is used infrequently and/or never reaches operating temperature for any length of time. Once the engine is at normal operating temperature, moisture is rapidly evaporated from the oil.

---

Correct, should have said northern coastal Australia. I get condensation build up in my 55lt fuel tank.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by rick130

Did you read the Loaded4x4 link I posted?

I wrote it for the last issue specifically about tailoring oil change intervals from the recommended service interval and how they often need to be reduced.

Have a read of it, then come back and ask questions.

---

Hey, yes I did all i understood from it was if you drive in dusty conditions change more often and that synthetic oil is more stable against oxidising and can run further (depending?)

I will be driving it minimum 2 hours each direction for what i do as II wont be using it in the city. Will be all country type driving. So engine will getup to operating temperature etc but it doesnt really answer what I did ask here.

From what I think I am getting is, even if i was to buy the Mobil ESP 1 5w 40 full synthetic, it would still need to be changed at 10,000 just like the regular MX would and it wont prolong the life of the engine due to 'better protection' over the MX either which suggests all that will happen is, it will cost me more going the 5w 40 full synth with no benefits over the MX.

If that is right, then why on earth spendtime developing these high end oils if the cheap stuff just as good. Thats where im ???

back to IMHO....

oil testing, full synthetic oils etc etc.... to me is wasting money and time.
Its a very low tech highly durable cast iron lunk of an engine.
The only single slight down side to this engine is, like a lot of jap engines they seem a bit dirty and sooty.

I've just done a service on my own Perentie and used what I use on customers vehicles a 5W40 semi synthetic.

Ok.
We went full syn and oil testing in the Patrol way back whenever as I was over doing an oil change every 2.5 weeks (5,000km oil drains)

Economically it made sense as I could easily go 20,000km with D1, with wear metal numbers the same as the previously used Fuchs oil at 5,000km.

When the ex and I separated that car had over 450,000km on it with only a puff of smoke from stem seals of a morning, otherwise it was running like a top. (We'd had it since new)
By that stage I'd brought the change intervals back to 10,000km as it wasn't doing long trips towing anymore.

Modern heavy duty diesel oils are bloody impressive, and you really need to do the numbers to see if the full syn oil is worth it.
In most cases these days it isn't.

The opposite side of the coin was the 300Tdi.
You'd think, nice, clean direct injected, high efficiency diesel compared to the old IDI TD42T would take to syn oil like the proverbial.
17,000km the oil was well past toast, it was stuffed.
15,000km was a stretch too far.
I stuck to 10,000km oil drains.

The 4BD1 is relatively unstressed and are known for doing serious km on average oils with regular servicing.

If you still want to go the full syn path put a really good mineral oil in it first, take a test at 10,000km at last three times to establish a trend and then if you really want to spend the $ try the full syn.

Its worth the while of interstate line haul operators to go the full syn route through the entire driveline as it saves $ over 1,000,000km, but when we are only doing 25,000km/year?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by rick130

Ok.
We went full syn and oil testing in the Patrol way back whenever as I was over doing an oil change every 2.5 weeks (5,000km oil drains)

Economically it made sense as I could easily go 20,000km with D1, with wear metal numbers the same as the previously used Fuchs oil at 5,000km.

When the ex and I separated that car had over 450,000km on it with only a puff of smoke from stem seals of a morning, otherwise it was running like a top. (We'd had it since new)
By that stage I'd brought the change intervals back to 10,000km as it wasn't doing long trips towing anymore.

Modern heavy duty diesel oils are bloody impressive, and you really need to do the numbers to see if the full syn oil is worth it.
In most cases these days it isn't.

The opposite side of the coin was the 300Tdi.
You'd think, nice, clean direct injected, high efficiency diesel compared to the old IDI TD42T would take to syn oil like the proverbial.
17,000km the oil was well past toast, it was stuffed.
15,000km was a stretch too far.
I stuck to 10,000km oil drains.

The 4BD1 is relatively unstressed and are known for doing serious km on average oils with regular servicing.

If you still want to go the full syn path put a really good mineral oil in it first, take a test at 10,000km at last three times to establish a trend and then if you really want to spend the $ try the full syn.

Its worth the while of interstate line haul operators to go the full syn route through the entire driveline as it saves $ over 1,000,000km, but when we are only doing 25,000km/year?

---

So stick to the mx for 3-4 oil changes and get it tested to see whats going on then try the full synthetic and see what happens with that at same intervals and thus deduct if it is even worth worrying about?

The D1 is 5w 40 the MX is 15w 40. Is any of that gonna matter even in winter, barrington tops, snow mountains etc? I always liked 0w just because it flows easy on startup where most wear happens. Thats probably a bigger reason I was looking at the D1 to start with 5w while MX is 15w.

Get the car first, then worry about the oil![emoji6][emoji38]

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by G.man

So stick to the mx for 3-4 oil changes and get it tested to see whats going on then try the full synthetic and see what happens with that at same intervals and thus deduct if it is even worth worrying about?

The D1 is 5w 40 the MX is 15w 40. Is any of that gonna matter even in winter, barrington tops, snow mountains etc? I always liked 0w just because it flows easy on startup where most wear happens. Thats probably a bigger reason I was looking at the D1 to start with 5w while MX is 15w.

---

At 'normal' start up temps, ie. above 0° there'll only be a small difference in flow rates at start up, and the warmer it is, particularly above 10° there will be bugger all in it.

I've plotted viscosity curves and at least one 15W-40 was better than everyone else's 10W-40 at 0°.
There really is no need in Australia for 5W or 0W-xx oils, we just don't get cold enough.

It's only in, say, Canberra, Cooma, Armidale or the snow that the 5w or 10w will pump a little more easily, and with the 15w it's only a bit more stress on the starter, so take it a little easier until you get the oil temps up.

In terms of wear protection you can blend a mineral oil to be stronger than a synthetic oil, and some are.
The additive package is what's important, the syn oils will just go longer.
Some blenders use a relatively 'weak' add pack in their syn oils, relying on the film strength and marketing of it being a syn.
Its a cheap arse way of making an oil but it sucks people in with the marketing.

Look for an ACEA E4, E6, E9 oil.
E9 are mid SAPS oils but the wear, sludge, etc specs are really tight.
Any combination or all, the ACEA specs are a lot more stringent than the API CI-4+, CJ-4 specs.
And if you want the 'Syn' advantage with a slightly more cost effective oil, the Euro truck spec 10W-40 oils are excellent.
These are the ones rated for 100,000km+ in the big Euro trucks.
They are generally Group III based and really good value if you want to extend drains with optimal protection.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Vern

Get the car first, then worry about the oil![emoji6][emoji38]

---

I agree, I reckon he's still gonna go back to the jeep after all this.
10k oil changes.....least of your worries mate.
Cheers Jim