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Thread: A warning about inverters

  1. #1
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    A warning about inverters

    Hey all..

    For anyone using or considering using a 240v inverter in their vehicle, allow me to share a useful tidbit of advice (by experience).

    If you're green to inverters & batteries.. take note.

    Some inverters have an automatic "Low Voltage Cutout" which the manual usually states is to prevent your vehicles battery from discharging below the voltage needed to start the vehicle.... **BEWARE**

    I didn't pay too much attention to the actual voltage that this alarm was set to.. which in my cheapo Jaycar inverter's case was 10.5v.. and just assumed it would save my battery at the correct voltage.

    10.5v is a VERY flat battery ladies and gents! In my research it is suggested not to discharge below a 50% state of charge.. which basically means somewhere around 12v. I'm not sure how it all translate to under load / at rest voltages, perhaps someone can summarise good discharge practices.

    Sidewinder ARB have this graph accompanying their dual battery monitor:



    As you can see.. when I went to start the Canyonero after the low voltage alarm went off... it barely had enough juice to run the dash lights. Quick call to the RACQ and I was back up and running again.

    I'd suggest a basic battery monitor be used in conjunction with any Inverters. Although I suspect the top end inverters are a bit smarter about their low voltage warnings. A dual battery rig would be even better as starter batteries don't like constant discharging I hear.

    Anyhoo.. just thought I'd share

    Cheers

    Wil

    ** Ps.. that earth point on your inverter... use it. Stake it and use it! Safety first kids!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Wil2k View Post
    10.5v is a VERY flat battery ladies and gents! In my research it is suggested not to discharge below a 50% state of charge.. which basically means somewhere around 12v. I'm not sure how it all translate to under load / at rest voltages, perhaps someone can summarise good discharge practices.
    Hi Wil2k, the chart below is the correct voltage to State of Charge comparison for batteries in vehicle or RV use.

    The chart you have is for open circuit battery voltage which is next to useless when measuring vehicle and RV battery voltages.

    Your inverter’s cut-out voltage is actually typical of devices designed to run off the AUXILIARY battery but your warning is still VERY relevant because many fridges also cut-out at 10.5v, which is a flat battery.

    A word of warning for you, some vendors are motor mechanics and although they pass themselves off as auto electrical experts, their information may be less than accurate.

    As far as cycling batteries to 50%, this too depends on the type of battery and it’s intended use. While taking a cranking battery down to 50%, ( 12.06v ), is a safe level for it when being used as a cranking batteries, there are many batteries that can be safely taken down to 30% ( 11.75v ) including cranking batteries, and even 20% ( 11.58v ), but again it depends on battery type and their intended use.

    Last edited by djhampson; 18th October 2010 at 05:24 PM. Reason: Removed company name

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    Quote Originally Posted by drivesafe View Post
    Hi Wil2k, the chart below is the correct voltage to State of Charge comparison for batteries in vehicle or RV use.
    Great info! Thanks Drivesafe!

    I wasn't actually endorsing the aforementioned snake oil.. I just thought I'd better state where I found that graph! The traxide one was actually the one I was hunting for when I posted that.. but I couldn't remember where I'd seen it!

    Wil

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    Hi again Wil, and from your post I assumed you were more asking than anything else.

    By the way, these 10.5v cut-outs on these devices seem more to be there to protect the device rather than giving any protection to a battery.

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    Wil2k, I can relate to your experience a bit. I recently used and Aldi brand 300w hand held wisk, in a Aldi 600w inverter. I was amazed how this devices rapped my deep cycle battery for such a shot burst of use. Perhaps I should have had the car running, but user be ware.

    ps, I no longer have the Aldi goods in the truck.
    Jason

    2010 130 TDCi

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    VladTepes is offline Major Part of the Heart and Soul of AULRO Subscriber
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    never mind the "Aldi" but what the hell were you using an electric whisk for in the bush.
    Going soft on us?
    It's not broken. It's "Carbon Neutral".


    gone


    1993 Defender 110 ute "Doris"
    1994 Range Rover Vogue LSE "The Luxo-Barge"
    1994 Defender 130 HCPU "Rolly"
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    yeh, now I'm all embarrassed.
    Scrambled eggs, the whisk does such a good job, all fluffy like.
    Jason

    2010 130 TDCi

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    now the key to good scrambled eggs is cream, not milk, oh and when cooking, fold the eggs don't 'scamble' them

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    Quote Originally Posted by drivesafe View Post
    Hi again Wil, and from your post I assumed you were more asking than anything else.

    By the way, these 10.5v cut-outs on these devices seem more to be there to protect the device rather than giving any protection to a battery.
    We use a Trailblazer fridge with a built-in 10.5 volt cut-out. Once the battery drops to 10.5, the fridge shuts down and attempts to re-start after a time delay.

    The Odyssey battery we use are still able to start our TD5 Defender once the fridge has been shut down due to the low voltage cut out.

    Erich.

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    Hi Bundalene, this is a common situation, particularly with high energy batteries like Odyssey, Optima and Orbital.

    These spiral wound type AGMs can also be taken much lower than other batteries and not seriously harm them.

    BUT, you still shorten any battery’s life span when taking them down to these low voltages. Best to avoid if you can.

    Quote Originally Posted by newhue View Post
    I recently used and Aldi brand 300w hand held wisk, in a Aldi 600w inverter. I was amazed how this devices rapped my deep cycle battery for such a shot burst of use. Perhaps I should have had the car running, but user be ware.
    Hi newhue, this is actually very good advice. Where there is likely to be heavy load for a short time, run your motor and protect your batteries.

    A good rule of thumb for power usage from batteries, is to try to keep your long term current draw to no more than 5 amp per every 100 Ah of battery capacity and no more than 10 amps per 100 Ah of battery capacity for short time current loads.

    In other words, if your using one of my SC80 isolators and you have a 75 Ah cranking battery and a 100 Ah auxiliary battery, try not to apply loads of more than 7.5 amps and you will actually get more power from your batteries between charges.

    Newhue, in your case, even running your set up for a short period, you should have had at least 400 Ah of battery capacity to make sure you didn’t do any harm to your batteries.

    And VLAD, no you can not take your microwave oven with you!

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