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Thread: Battery and Fridge Cut Out Question

  1. #1
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    Battery and Fridge Cut Out Question

    I have a dual battery system that uses a Redarc controller and a flooded wet cell deep cycle as the second battery. This deep cycle is new and when I got it home it read 12.65V on an open circuit. I then installed it hooked everything up and it reads 12.25V on a closed circuit. Now I'm assuming this is OK?

    So assuming the above is OK my fridge gives me some options when choosing the cut out:

    Off 10.1 restart 11.1
    Off 11.4 restart 12.2
    Off 11.8 restart 12.6

    Would I be fine running it on the first option to extend the fridge running time? I assume I add 0.4V to these figures to get the "real" battery voltage? On the first option the fridge compressor won't turn on again until it sees 11.1V from the system.

    Is this all right or am I missing something obvious?

  2. #2
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    Hmm that setting is too low, the battery will be at near zero. I'm thinking the middle option is safest?

  3. #3
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    The middle one is definitely kinder for the battery. Battery life is dependent on depth of discharge so this could possibly double your battery life.

  4. #4
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    I agree. Sounds like a Waeco ?
    I run mine on the middle setting - I think it's a good compromise between getting a few years out of the battery and reasonable running time out of the fridge.

    IF however your wires to the fridge were too thin ( resulting in a large voltage drop ) then putting it on the lowest setting would prevent the fridge cutting out too early. ( because the fridge measures the voltage at it's plug, not at the battery ) But that's a fudge - you'd be better to put thicker wiring through.

  5. #5
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    Hi inside, the middle setting is as low as you should risk taking a deep cycle battery.

    While waynep is correct about the size of cable verses fridge running properly, but if your fridge is causing a voltage drop in the cable because it’s too thin, the fridge can still cycle on, pull the voltage down then cycle off. Because there is now no load, the voltage will rise again and the whole thing repeats itself until the battery voltage is below 11.1 with no load and this is way to low.

  6. #6
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    Thanks guys. I've wired up a voltmeter that monitors the second battery so it's easy to keep an eye on it. As this is the first time I've used the fridge and battery I think it'll take some time get to know how it works in the real world. BTW I wired a new circuit for the fridge using 25 amp wire and a 15 amp fuse.

  7. #7
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    Hi, Quirk's autofridge clicks off at 10.5V and will not restart until 12V. Cable size is most important - use the largest that is practical and be wary of the size difference labelled as there is a big difference between auto cable which states size including the insulation and prope relectrical cable in which size quoted is for the conductor only. Cheers

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