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Thread: CB antenna and unit installation.

  1. #1
    damo_s Guest

    CB antenna and unit installation.

    Hey all,

    I have decided on buying a GME TX3420 (remote head unit) for my first CB setup.

    I want to install the remote head under the drink holder and install the main unit behind the panel beneath the steering wheel (where the fuses, etc are).

    Id like to use a relay so i dont have to worry about the battery being drained (because sometimes the car goes unused for a while). Basically, i would like to know which wire is the ignition wire! I have searched for wiring diagrams but cant find anything

    There are a few wires with a plastic sheath around them running from the ignition switch. Any idea which of these would be the ideal one to tap into?


    Secondly, I am undecided on which antenna to buy!

    RFI explorist (the one with the 6 and 3.5db interchangeable whips) for $129 or the GME ae4703 (4.5db, 1100mm) fibreglass antenna for $139

    Any help would be appreciated, as im really not knowledgeable on this topic at all!



    Damo

  2. #2
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    G'day Damo.

    The colour of the ignition wire will depend on what sort of car you have....

    However, the locations you have scouted out for the remote unit & the main unit are probably spot on. The radio should have an in-line fuse, so the best thing to do is to find a circuit in the fuse box that is switched with the ignition.

    The ciggy lighter seems to be the most popular. Not really sure why you need a relay, as if the ignition is off, the radio will be off anyway.

    As for the antenna, each has its own advantages. The RFI set will give you better coverage across all channels & conditions, but it means you have to manually change the whip at the end. The GME is a compromise, but means that you can leave it on all the time.

    Personally, I would go the GME antenna.

  3. #3
    damo_s Guest
    Cheers Basil.

    I have a 2004 D2 TD5.

    I was thinking of using a relay and getting the power from the battery, and then connecting it to the ignition so the radio could only be used while the car was on.

    Unless, when switched off, the radio draws very little power, in that case there is probably no point using a relay, and i may as well just connect it to the battery (or fuse box, but i dont really know how to tap into the fuse box!).

    I was also thinking the GME antenna.

    Thanks again mate

  4. #4
    Tombie Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by damo_s View Post
    Cheers Basil.

    I have a 2004 D2 TD5.

    I was thinking of using a relay and getting the power from the battery, and then connecting it to the ignition so the radio could only be used while the car was on.

    Unless, when switched off, the radio draws very little power, in that case there is probably no point using a relay, and i may as well just connect it to the battery (or fuse box, but i dont really know how to tap into the fuse box!).

    I was also thinking the GME antenna.

    Thanks again mate
    Go the GME 4700 series antennas... The shorter unit is also a great indicator of vehicle height in carparks

    As for power consumption - mine sits left on for days without issue.
    As long as the squelch is on it isnt a problem.
    Wire direct to battery for best performance and noise filtering.

  5. #5
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    Easiest way to tap into the fuse box is to just unscrew it, find the right wire at the back, and then tap into that. If you want to be really safe, use the fused side.

  6. #6
    damo_s Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Tombie View Post
    As long as the squelch is on it isnt a problem.
    Im sorry but i have no idea what this means

    Please explain?


    Quote Originally Posted by Basil135 View Post
    Easiest way to tap into the fuse box is to just unscrew it, find the right wire at the back, and then tap into that. If you want to be really safe, use the fused side.
    I might give this a look, but im sure i will end up taking the power directly from the battery

  7. #7
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    The squelch is a setting on the radio that blocks out the hiss.

    Usually, you turn a knob so that the hiss just dissapears, and then leave it. The main objective is to block out background noise, so that you only hear the stronger signals.

  8. #8
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    Hi Damo. Like Tombie said. Wire the radio direct to the battery. Use cable (the extra, if you need it) that's bigger than the power lead on the radio.

    The squelch on your uhf is a function (control) that acts to suppress the audio output of the radio receiver in the absence of a sufficiently strong enough desired input signal. Squelch OFF the radio speaker will be going "shhhhhhhhhhhhh" constantly. On a scale of 0-10 that "shhhhhhhhhhhh" noise might be a 3. By turning the squelch to 4, the radios speaker goes silent. When you recieve a signal, as long as it's stronger than the level the squelch is set to, the squelch opens to allow audio to be produced. Keeps the radio silent when no one's talking ... and, cuts down the power consumption of the radio by not running a constant audio signal.
    Kev..

    Going ... going ... almost gone ... GONE !! ... 2004 D2a Td5 Auto "Classic Country" Vienna Green

    2014 MUX LST with fruit
    2015 Kimberley Kamper "Classic"

  9. #9
    damo_s Guest
    Hey fluids, or anyone else that can answer this...

    I dont think the wiring that came with the UHF will be long enough to reach the battery (just the positive, as i think i may as well just ground to the chassis). So i need to lengthen it with larger diameter wire, as said by fluids in the previous post.

    What diameter? Any idea? And also, what is the best way to connect the wires? By soldering them? Or some form of connecting clips?

    Is it advisable to connect the negative to the battery terminal as well, or is grounding to the chassis fine also?

    Thanks

  10. #10
    d@rk51d3 Guest
    Grounding to the battery is better, but not crucial. Some people even fuse the earth line too.

    Solder your joints too, if possible.

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