Thread: Problem with Battery/Fridge/DBS

Cant help with the test side, but I had my fridge/freezer do the same, after much testing with a multimeter the culpruit was the DBS not changing the charge to the Aux battery.
My problem was it was intermittant and sometimes the battery was getting charge, in the end I found it by hooking up a can style solenoid and it started to work again.I was offroad so never had access to much testing gear other than the multimeter, but it drove me mad with the freezer sometimes being part defrosted, then would come good.

I was using 2 AGM batteries that were only a couple of months old, so was sure it wasn't them, but did originally think the Engel had lost some gas charge.

Hope this helps in some way..

Cheers Ean

Thanks Ean, to compinsate for this I have set my fridges battery protection setting(Waeco) to the low setting of 11.0v, I had it at 12v for about 4 to 5yrs without a problem, but since changing batteries it is now causing this issue, these are new batteries, both the same type as I had before, seeing as running the batteries below 12v is not good for them, I'm worried I'm going to kill them.

Baz.

Just a thought between the differences in readings between your EMS & volt meter. Have you tried a second volt meter?

In the past, I have had 2 crazy different readings on things, but found out later, the hard way of course, that one of the meters was knackered.

Just thinking that before you totally condemn the EMS, maybe beg, borrow, or steal, ok, dont steal, another meter to confirm the readings.

Originally Posted by Basil135

Just a thought between the differences in readings between your EMS & volt meter. Have you tried a second volt meter?

In the past, I have had 2 crazy different readings on things, but found out later, the hard way of course, that one of the meters was knackered.

Just thinking that before you totally condemn the EMS, maybe beg, borrow, or steal, ok, dont steal, another meter to confirm the readings.

I'm not condeming any of the devices, just covering all bases to find out what the problem is, I have checked the batteries with another meter and will check it again before I start doing the 12v testing, for all I know it may only be a bad earth, or loose or bad connection somewhere, I know for certain the EMS does rely on very good earths for them to work well.

Baz.

Hi Baz, just how new is new and what type of batteries are they.

Also, unless they are dedicated cranking batteries, most batteries can be safely cycled down to 30% SoC.

Originally Posted by drivesafe

Hi Baz, just how new is new and what type of batteries are they.

Also, unless they are dedicated cranking batteries, most batteries can be safely cycled down to 30% SoC.

Hi Tim, the main battery is less than 3mths old it's a Delkor 31-900 Cal/Cal, the auxillary is less than 12mths and it's a Fullriver DC-55 Amp Hr.

So far the fridge has been good on 240v, no up or down in temps.

I'm going to charge the second battery tonight with a 240v charger, once fully charged run the fridge on it for 24hrs disconnected from the main battery.

Once I have done this;

I will go for a long run in the car with no load on the second battery. All lights, fridge etc off. Return home, disconnect negative lead of house battery and leave for 12 hours. Voltage on battery should be around 12.7 or more if battery is fully charged, would that about be right Tim.

Then if this test is okay, I'll re-connect the negative lead and test again after 12 hours without running the car.

This should be a good test for the battery, DBS and fridge I think

What do you think Tim?

Baz.

Hi Baz, with your Disco, after the drive, the batteries will probably be up round 13-13.5v

Thats just surface charge but see how your fridge runs then.

If your cranking battery is at that voltage but your other batteries are much lower, with the motor running, check out voltage levels on the input ( RED wire ) and output ( GREY wire ) of the SC40.

Originally Posted by drivesafe

Hi Baz, with your Disco, after the drive, the batteries will probably be up round 13-13.5v

Thats just surface charge but see how your fridge runs then.

If your cranking battery is at that voltage but your other batteries are much lower, with the motor running, check out voltage levels on the input ( RED wire ) and output ( GREY wire ) of the SC40.

I've checked the voltage of the 2 batteries and they are always around the same voltage, last time I checked them was Tuesday arvo, the car had been sitting for 2 days, the voltage of the main was 12.32v, the auxillary was 12.40v, not a great deal of difference.

Thanks Tim,

Baz.