Thread: Installing an Icom ID800 in a 2004 Td5 Discovery

I would think that if you need 20amps then a direct feed is best. I have a 2004 D2 TD5 and have run a similar current draw cable through the rubber gromment in the fire wall, driver's side, next to the mud guard, about 2/3 the way up the fire wall. I ran the cable to the underbonnet fuse holder and used a lug with a 10mm (or thereabouts) hole, using the bolt holding the alternator cable input (brown cable). Had to cut a small slot in the side of the fuse holder at the top.

I'd run the antenna wire down the other side of the D2 using the rubber grommet in the fire wall on the opposite side.

Mundy

Hi Kfacta,

Been a little slow in keeping up with the forum. I'd be inclined to do as Mundy has suggested and run a direct feed from a battery.

Did a similar thing when I had the D2 a while back. Had the VKS737 HF mounted back behind the cargo barrier and these draw a similar current when on high power transmit. The cabling ran through to the second battery direct (both +ve and -ve) using about 10AWG (from old and failing memory) in a shielded run. This obviated problems with interference issues from the cabling and using a closer body earth. There are numerous grommet points in the firewall on both sides that will allow the cable to be run through.

Radiation issues, due to transmission were reduced due to the antenna and power runs going in opposite directions along the car (antenna and tuner at rear of car). Again as Mundy advises maximal separation of the two cable runs is a wise move.

TD5s are known for noise issues due to the electronic control injection system but they are no worse (and mostly better) than similar diesel injection systems in other makes.

If you're running a second battery to drive an accessory load then it's no issue to kill the engine when you transmit anyway. At least for a little while!

So, in short, separate power and RF lines and connect power direct to source (appropriately fused of course).

HTH.

Cheers,
Iain