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Thread: Batteries

  1. #1
    85 county is offline AULRO Holiday Reward Points Winner!
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    Batteries

    OK i have 2X N7 and a marine controller switch thing.

    so i can have ether or one battery at a time.
    i pick up the N7s for about a $100 each.

    no i have run battery's down really low a few times which seems to kill them.

    so is there another sort of battery i should be using or should i be taking a difrent aproch?

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    A designated deep cycle battery has different construction, to allow for big discharges and full recharges continually without loosing plate material etc.

    How are you running them down? If by sitting for long periods even an N70 leadacid battery will last years if not allowed to fully discharge and be recharged contiunually, so a trickle charge or solar panel top up charger will make all the difference. Much as I like the marine type simple controllers, a traxide SC80, USI190 or similar unit will be a more useful battery management idea.


    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  3. #3
    85 county is offline AULRO Holiday Reward Points Winner!
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    Quote Originally Posted by justinc View Post
    A designated deep cycle battery has different construction, to allow for big discharges and full recharges continually without loosing plate material etc.

    How are you running them down? If by sitting for long periods even an N70 leadacid battery will last years if not allowed to fully discharge and be recharged contiunually, so a trickle charge or solar panel top up charger will make all the difference. Much as I like the marine type simple controllers, a traxide SC80, USI190 or similar unit will be a more useful battery management idea.


    JC
    i have solar panels which untill recently were keeping on top of things. its mainly the fridge that will run them down, there is no voltage cut out on the fridge.

    last N7 i replaced was dated 1997, unfortunately its mate has died 10.5 volts max and its replacement charged up to 13.8 but was at 11.2 miday following

  4. #4
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    I like the N70EX which is a 4WD rated semi-deep cycle, good for a starting battery but will deep cycle too if not continuously. About $169 the last time I bought one from Bridgestone at Magill. My last one lasted 7 years with a few camping trips.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 85 county View Post
    i have solar panels which untill recently were keeping on top of things. its mainly the fridge that will run them down, there is no voltage cut out on the fridge.

    last N7 i replaced was dated 1997, unfortunately its mate has died 10.5 volts max and its replacement charged up to 13.8 but was at 11.2 miday following
    That doesn't help. Still, 5 years isn't bad really for $100 a battery

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

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    To jump onto this, I have a D2 and am debating the merits of how to setup the batteries. I can fit, and have plans for a replacement tray that will hold 2 x optimas plus still hold the jack. But as comes up, while these are very durable and are deep cycle they have a very low amp hour rating, less than a single standard battery potentially.

    So I'm thinking for my uses which are weekday running around and trips of less than a week (on weekends) only running a cheap bunnings fridge which is off when car is off. Only accessories in car are U.H.F., GPS/tablet, driving lights (150w fyrlyts), aftermarket stereo/amp & winch. There's no dimming at idle unless everything is on and you winch under load. Not a likely scenario, just done to establish what it takes.

    So I like the redundancy of having a backup for starting uses (especially with the auto) but Cat make a great value 1000A/h unit but limits it to most likely one battery in the box. Are there any options fora smaller start only battery then use the large unit for everything else.

    I don't want anythingn the back and the LH corner has the compressor, catch can and breathers there.

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    Quote Originally Posted by clubagreenie View Post
    To jump onto this, I have a D2 and am debating the merits of how to setup the batteries. I can fit, and have plans for a replacement tray that will hold 2 x optimas plus still hold the jack. But as comes up, while these are very durable and are deep cycle they have a very low amp hour rating, less than a single standard battery potentially.

    So I'm thinking for my uses which are weekday running around and trips of less than a week (on weekends) only running a cheap bunnings fridge which is off when car is off. Only accessories in car are U.H.F., GPS/tablet, driving lights (150w fyrlyts), aftermarket stereo/amp & winch. There's no dimming at idle unless everything is on and you winch under load. Not a likely scenario, just done to establish what it takes.

    So I like the redundancy of having a backup for starting uses (especially with the auto) but Cat make a great value 1000A/h unit but limits it to most likely one battery in the box. Are there any options fora smaller start only battery then use the large unit for everything else.

    I don't want anythingn the back and the LH corner has the compressor, catch can and breathers there.
    Could you find room for an Optima (or similar) behind the RH rear tyre? Hang it off the chassis rail? After all, that's where they put gas conversion petrol tanks.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by bee utey View Post
    Could you find room for an Optima (or similar) behind the RH rear tyre? Hang it off the chassis rail? After all, that's where they put gas conversion petrol tanks.
    Water tank.

  9. #9
    85 county is offline AULRO Holiday Reward Points Winner!
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    ok battery is sorted thank bueutie.

    what about an inline gizzmoe that will shut things down in the battery gets 2 low??

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by 85 county View Post
    what about an inline gizzmoe that will shut things down in the battery gets 2 low??
    Thanks for the promo Justinc.

    Hi 85 county, I have a NEW SC80 and SC80+A isolator about to be posted up on my web site.

    The new SC80 is a direct replacement for the old SC80 and SC80-LR. The new SC80 is smaller in size but has the same 90 amp cranking battery to auxiliary battery capacity but uses much less power, less than half that of the old SC80.

    Like the old SC80, the new SC80 is designed to protect your cranking battery.

    The SC80+A has the same battery to battery capacity as the new SC80, but the SC80+A also has a dedicated 30 amp ACCESSORIES output.

    With the SC80+A, you move your accessories from your auxiliary battery to the ACCESSORIES output on the SC80+A and this then protects your auxiliary battery from being over discharged.

    85 county, this 30 amp ACCESSORIES output is designed to protect your auxiliary battery so the SC80+A is two isolators in one package and protects both your cranking battery and your auxiliary battery. This is probably what you are after.

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