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Thread: Traxide Isolator issues

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hoppy11 View Post
    If we experience a flat cranking battery should we jump start from auxiliary or cranking battery
    Hi Hoppy and there is a catch, it doesn’t matter whether you are using one of my isolators, or some other brand with jump start ability or just using a jumper lead between the auxiliary battery and the flat cranking battery.

    If the cranking battery is low but can be charged, then you will most likely be able to jump start from the auxiliary battery.

    If the cranking battery dead flat and /or faulty, then you will actually need to get a jump start from a donor vehicle, WHILE THE DONOR VEHICLE'S MOTOR IS RUNNING.

    Just as an example, I recently had a call from a friend who had the first TEST USI-160 fitted.

    He had been to the cape and back, winching quite a few bogged vehicles on the way and had done a couple of jump starts but that morning he could not jump start his vehicle, even though his auxiliary battery was fully charged.

    He tried to jump start from his wife’s VW but as the vehicles were parked side by side, he hadn’t started the VW.

    Not until he started the VW and left it idling for a few minutes, did he finally get his 4x4 started.

    So be careful, having an auxiliary battery does not guaranty you will be able to jump start from it.

    This will depend on how low ( or flat ) your cranking battery is when you try. If the cranking battery is dead flat and/or faulty, it will pull the auxiliary battery down to a level where it too can not start your motor.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tombie View Post
    The answer means - use the aux battery to provide the power to jump start.

    You will always need to follow the procedure and jump using the main battery to get a vehicle going (no point connecting to the aux. it will be isolated).

    The USI has a feature to 'jump link' the aux into the starting circuit.
    Maybe this is why the main is going flat, could it still be in jump link?? and the main is still having power drawn from it.

    Baz.
    Cheers Baz.

    2011 Discovery 4 SE 2.7L
    1990 Perentie FFR EX Aust Army
    1967 Series IIa 109 (Farm Truck)
    2007 BMW R1200GS
    1979 BMW R80/7
    1983 BMW R100TIC Ex ACT Police
    1994 Yamaha XT225 Serow

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Redback View Post
    Maybe this is why the main is going flat, could it still be in jump link?? and the main is still having power drawn from it.

    Baz.
    Hi Baz and NO.

    Unlike most other isolators, where the jump start switch bypasses the isolator a just turns on the relays, with the USI-160, the switch tells the USI-160’s micro that you want want to jump start.

    The micro then checks to see if it can be done and then links the batteries.

    If you do not get the motor started with in 20 seconds of trying to, the USI-160 will cancel the Jump Start mode and revert to normal operations.

    If you succeed in starting the motor, as soon as the voltage rises over 13.15v, indicating the motor is running, the USI-160 again will cancel the Jump Start mode and revert to normal operations.

    Even if you select Winch mode, and this can only be done while the motor is running, and you forget to take it out of winch mode, 5 minutes after you turn the motor off, once again, the USI-160 will automatically revert to normal operations

    So there is no way you can accidentally leave the USI-160 on and flatten the cranking battery if you flatten the auxiliary battery.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by drivesafe View Post
    Hi Baz and NO.

    Unlike most other isolators, where the jump start switch bypasses the isolator a just turns on the relays, with the USI-160, the switch tells the USI-160’s micro that you want want to jump start.

    The micro then checks to see if it can be done and then links the batteries.

    If you do not get the motor started with in 20 seconds of trying to, the USI-160 will cancel the Jump Start mode and revert to normal operations.

    If you succeed in starting the motor, as soon as the voltage rises over 13.15v, indicating the motor is running, the USI-160 again will cancel the Jump Start mode and revert to normal operations.

    Even if you select Winch mode, and this can only be done while the motor is running, and you forget to take it out of winch mode, 5 minutes after you turn the motor off, once again, the USI-160 will automatically revert to normal operations

    So there is no way you can accidentally leave the USI-160 on and flatten the cranking battery if you flatten the auxiliary battery.
    Just a quick question Tim, how can I tell if I'm in winch mode, there are no markings on my switch, is there a direction the switch should be in??
    Cheers Baz.

    2011 Discovery 4 SE 2.7L
    1990 Perentie FFR EX Aust Army
    1967 Series IIa 109 (Farm Truck)
    2007 BMW R1200GS
    1979 BMW R80/7
    1983 BMW R100TIC Ex ACT Police
    1994 Yamaha XT225 Serow

  5. #15
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    Hi again Baz.

    You can only select WINCH mode with the motor running.

    If you are in the SHEARED mode ( the recommended setting ) the switch will be positioned away from the LED and the LED will be glowing constantly.

    With the motor running, move the switch towards the LED. The LED will now glow for 2 seconds and then give 3 short flashes and then constantly repeats this cycle while you are in WINCH mode.

    If you are in IGNITION mode, the switch is positioned towards the LED. Move the switch away from the LED and then back towards the LED again.

    This will again put you into WINCH mode.

    You can turn the Winch mode off by either moving the switch away from the LED and when the motor is turned off, the USI-160 will automatically go into SHEARED mode.

    Or you can leave the switch where it is and just turn your motor off, 5 minutes after the motor is turned off, the USI-160 will automatically go into IGNITION mode.

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