Thread: Tidying up electrics under Defender seat / dual battery etc.

one of these

Mulgo ExBox | Buy 4x4 Land Rover Toyota Nissan Accessories and Parts Online Store | Expedition Centre Australia by Mulgo

alot of work but worth it

I used a couple of 600amp busbars, hooked all the positive and earths through them with cables going to the auxiliary battery under the tray (130 single cab) on the passenger side. Also in the battery box under the seat is the Traxide controller and a Albright solenoid for the winch.

I've purchased this from Jaycar recently, and will be implementing it in my revised centre console/cubby/solar charge controller solution shortly...

10 Way Blade Fuse Block with LED Indicators - Jaycar Electronics

**EDIT** The Mulgo link posted above also has links to similar fuse blocks:
http://www.expeditioncentre.com.au/o...use-block.html

They list a common positive and negative on theirs, though.

Yes what do I actually need as far as that's concerned - common negative and positive, or separate positives or something else? I have no idea about this stuff.

Depending on what you are trying to achieve, but if it something similar to what I am doing hopefully that will help.

I have 2 batteries under the passenger seat and a Traxide U160 controller and this connects to both positives, the negative both run to the chassis.

Things I need to run the car go onto the main battery, other non-essential items onto the second, i.e. DVD players the kids, fridge etc.

Ii am trying to limit the amount of items connected to the battery terminals, so I have purchased an Exbox from Mulgo (which I am waiting on as he is out of stock) and I purchased

Narva 12 WAY Fuse Block BOX Holder ATS Blade Caravan Dual Battery 12V NEW 54450 | eBay

Using this it has a 1 common earth that you can use to run to all of you accessories and has 2 positive inputs which could be used for each battery, or both from the same battery, and this is to go into the Exbox and power all the accessories so I minimise the wiring under the passengers seat.

If you are going to run to an external fuse box like this don't forget to put some sort of fuse that will cover the maximum current as close to the battery as possible in case of a short circuit.

Richard

Cool seems like a good unit. Have ordered one too !

Those pre-wired Mulgo Ex boxes with 6 or 12 fuses look like a great idea and a simple solution, so one of them is on my wish list.


Its also possible to get from Autobarn and similar places a circular brass fitting which screws onto a battery terminal and has, from memory, six screws on it, so each wire can be connected separately to it, rather than them being all jammed onto the same battery terminal screw. Costs about $20 from memory.


As for fuses, I'd instead be inclined to add in a 10am circuit breaker somewhere in the system just in case of overloading. No fuses to replace.