Thread: 175 amp anderson plug at rear of defender

You're gonna need some pretty big wiring back to your battery to take a starting load, and handle the voltage drop.

Martyn

Used to have a similar setup on our field service vans when I was on the tools. We used 200 amp Anderson plugs back to 2 other batteries set up for either 12 or 24 volt, that had a VSR to disconnect it from the cranking battery. They would stay connected in parallel most of the time and charge off 12 volts, and we had a plug setup to swap to 24 volts if needed. We could jump start a 15 litre truck engine easily off this, and used the largest cable that would fit into the lug - can't remember what that was off the top of my head - from the batteries to the plug. The 200 amp Anderson plugs are easy enough to plug in and remove - no harder than a 50 amp really, but probably need more of a jiggle. Although rated for 200 amps, that is a continuous rating. I had my clamp metre on the cables once and saw nearly 800 amps recorded. It is only for a few seconds, and we never destroyed one due to over current. Even started a V16 50 litre diesel off them once...

I've got one at the back of my Defender, connected via very thick (almost welding cable according to my fitter mate). Never had to use it for jump starting, but I have a 50A adapter (with a big red handle - makes it heaps easier to disconnect) that I use all the time with the compressor.

I have both a 25 and 175 anderson mounted on my bull bar very handy. 25 for solar and 175 for jumping also bery long cables that will reach the front of another car if have pull up behind them. If you can get heavy enough cable to the rear its a good idea

I have a 175A on the back of the 130
Use it to winch using ATV wiches for boat trailers
Also makes jump starting a breeze, just split your jumpers with some andersons and you can jump start from the tow ball rather than under the passenger seat

shhh dont tell anyone but I have heavy welding cable to the positive but just earthed the anderson out to the passenger chassis rail - considering the fender main earth is on said rail it halved the run of welding cable and Im thinking a chassis rail wont struggle to carry the requisite electrons to the plug.

Works and works well

175A plugs are much easy to connect/ disconnect than 50A in my experience

S

Originally Posted by Ranga

I've got one at the back of my Defender, connected via very thick (almost welding cable according to my fitter mate). Never had to use it for jump starting, but I have a 50A adapter (with a big red handle - makes it heaps easier to disconnect) that I use all the time with the compressor.

The set up on ranga defender was done with welding type cable which I think was also covered with spiral nylon wrap to protect against abrasions along the chassis and was set up for jump starting if required.
A 175 Anderson plug is large enough for jump starting most 4wds and can be fitted with a large grab handle.
All my vehicles including my mechanics work van has the same set up.
The Anderson plug and heavy battery/welding cable is also used to power the electric winch on my boat trailer or to inter connect the camper van on longer trips.
I have also used the 175 amp plug at the rear of the vehicles to connect solar or a fridge while camping.
A 175 to 50 amp adaptor is also easily made as well as a jumper starter leads with a Anderson plug on it and then normal clamping pos and neg connectors to jump start to or from your vehicle.
If large enough cable is used voltage drop for charging the camper battery or just running its fridge, while driving along is less of a issue.

Set up on 101 Land rover with welding ng cable running to dual batteries on vehicle
Lower Hayman Rease Pintal Hook Assy Photo by 101Ron | Photobucket

Often used to jump start other vehicles does including the tractors at the farm.

Anderson plug fitted to the rear of a HCPU 130 TDI 300 defender.
2007106.jpg Photo by 101Ron | Photobucket!
..........ranga defender when it was fitted with hcpu