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Thread: Wiring in a fridge etc.

  1. #1
    VladTepes's Avatar
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    Wiring in a fridge etc.

    To go into the tray of my 130 I have an Engel fridge.

    Also need a power supply for reversing camera, light (interior), work light (exterior) and a spare socket or two for other items wouldn't go astray.

    How would I best sort this out ?
    Wiring / extra fuse box / breakers ??
    What sirt of plugs etc should I use ?

    Also I'd like to be able to remove the tub w/out having to unwire all the stuff.

    Would it be possible to make a big plug so that I could just unplug and remove the tub ?

    What about a similar plug for the tail / indicator / reversing lights and trailer connectors ??

    Hmm, many questions.

    Over to you !
    It's not broken. It's "Carbon Neutral".


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  2. #2
    numpty's Avatar
    numpty is offline TopicToaster Silver Subscriber
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    Well, you know what kind of plugs and sockets I use (and thoroughly recommend),even for rough stuff.

    If you want to remove the tub, I would suggest you connect the cable via an Anderson plug, which could be separated to allow removal of said tub.
    Numpty

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    Hi Vlad, the best plugs I’ve come across are the Anderson PowerPoles.

    The smallest version of these are just a bit thicker that a ball point pen but unlike cigarette type power sockets which only handle up to 16 amps and Merit/Hella plugs and sockets which handle 20 amps, the PowerPoles handle 30 amps which means you are highly unlikely to ever overload them when used with a fridge or the likes.

    At the point in time, the biggest draw back with using theses plugs is that there is no flush mount versions available here. This means they are only available in an end of cable set up.

    But, in the next few weeks I hope to have a variety of flush mount fitting for these plugs.


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    Vlad

    The way I'd be doing it would be making up a power distribution box, using one of the sealed junction boxes you can get from an electrical wholesaler.

    Down each side I would have a couple of the plastic "cigarette lighter" style sockets you can get from marine suppliers like "Bias Boating" (they have some easy to mount ones with a flat face and 2 screws which aren't shown in the online catalogue) and probably several other types of outlets like these or with a Circuit breaker or Fuse Holder for each outlet.

    I would then run a 6mm core figure 8 double insulated like NARVA sell (code 5826) to both sides of the battery with an appropriate sized auto reset circuit breaker
    or at the battery end and an Aderson plug where you dismount your camper body. If you want some items to be on ignition or accessories, then I'd be using the same battery lead but adding a small headlamp relay in the power dist box switched by a dedicated lead from the Acc part of the ignition.

    Diana

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

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    Quote Originally Posted by numpty View Post
    Well, you know what kind of plugs and sockets I use (and thoroughly recommend),even for rough stuff.

    If you want to remove the tub, I would suggest you connect the cable via an Anderson plug, which could be separated to allow removal of said tub.
    Marriage is living, laughing and suffering together.

    To quote the loaf himself. "2 out of 3 ain't bad. "

  6. #6
    VladTepes's Avatar
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    Thanks Tim - I reckon I can wait a few weeks !
    Cheers

    Lotza - very... pictorial ! Cheers
    It's not broken. It's "Carbon Neutral".


    gone


    1993 Defender 110 ute "Doris"
    1994 Range Rover Vogue LSE "The Luxo-Barge"
    1994 Defender 130 HCPU "Rolly"
    1996 Discovery 1

    current

    1995 Defender 130 HCPU and Suzuki GSX1400


  7. #7
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    Some good ideas there, but you know what, I reckon any plug or socket that is externally mounted will eventually play up, even the Anderson ones. Dust, water, dirt, oil, crud will eventually find it's way to the contacts and create a resistance. If you're not going to remove the tub that often, it might be better to just have a grommet where you feed the wires through to the tub then terminate them in to some big mother screw terminals INSIDE the tub. From there go to a distribution box that has fuses and smaller cables going off to whatever you want to power. I'd be looking for some quite big cables to run through from the battery to the tub, even up to 35mm. Then if you want to ake the tub off you just isolate at the battery end, unscrew the cables in the tub end and push them through to the outside. You'll need to tape the bare cable ends while the tub is off. Leave it disconnected at the battery too.

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    The good thing about Anderson plugs is that they are industrial and take large currents. The contacts inside are rugged yet simple. Most importantly if you do have poor contact, the solution is usually only to remove and re-insert the plug which mechanically cleans the contact surfaces.

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

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    Quote Originally Posted by VladTepes View Post
    Thanks Tim - I reckon I can wait a few weeks !
    Hi again Vlad, they are coming from the States so they should be here soon and I’ll PM you when they arrive.

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    I agree with most of what is written above, but to make your job easier, try some of the off the shelf stuff (marine focussed) from Bluesea Systems: Blue Sea Systems
    they have panels with "water resistant" switches, fuse holders, circuit breakers, panel meters etc which woulde be simple to work with rather than DIY up a panel from scratch... I'm sure I've seen similar on Ebay too...

    that said, if you can get it from Drivesafe, go with it

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