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Thread: Couple of car audio Questions...

  1. #1
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    Couple of car audio Questions...

    After driving a D2 for a while, I now find the sound system in my D1 to be a little disappointing. So I'm trying to upgrade the sound system in the D1. Nothin extreme. And I'm not seeking a lot of bass - the bass from a 6.5" driver is enough for me.

    So far I have a newish Alpine head unit and a V12 2chn Alpine amp. The biggest drivers that will fit the front doors fairly easily would be 5.25" (stock speakers on the D1 are 4" front and rear). There is room to go to 6 or 5x7 or even 6x9 in the rear pillars. The head unit is only good for 18watts RMS per channel (4 channels).

    Question is, if I only power the front door speakers with the head unit, and power some bigger speakers in the rear with the amp, am I likely to get more than 18watts RMS from the head unit into the door speakers?

    Or would I be better off just replacing the front door speakers with 5.25" splits and driving them with the V12 amp and see how that goes for a while - possibly adding a rear amp and larger rear speakers later?

    Thanks in adv,
    Taz.

  2. #2
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    you will get better response out of the amp, that is what they do. It does depend on the inputs and outputs of the amp however.

  3. #3
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    The v12 amp is a fantastic amp and works best loaded up, id run 6x9 in the rear (they have great bass without wanting a sub and wasting more space) with the splits in the front all run of the amp.

    Jay.

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    Check the deck to see if you have preouts on it.
    These will plug straight in to the amp.
    If you are only running the front speakers straight from the deck, the rear speaker outputs from the deck will draw anything. The RMS figure is per channel, not total combined output so even if you did have 4 speakers dirctly off the deck, each are be powered by individual MOSFET's in the deck anyway.
    What V12 do you have??? Most of these are 4 channel unless it is an older one pre-digital display ones or the mono-block sub amps.

    If its a 4 channel,
    1- bridge 3&4 on the amp for the subbie, connect the sub preout on the deck to the amp,
    2- connect the rear preout to channel 1&2 on the amp and run front speakers off the deck.
    If its a definite 2 channel, just do step 2 as you wont be able to run rears and a subbie unless the amp is bridgeable and you run front and rears off the deck.

    Cheers

    Andrew.

    PS, Thanks for reminding me, I need to remove all my equipment from the Rangie and put it into the D2 now. Not so hard removing it, but going to be a pain having to rewire the D2!

  5. #5
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    Taz you will find Polk 5" coax fit into D1 speaker door and mounts. Thery are an excellent US made speaker. If you can get hold of some D1 A pillar covers with tweater enclosures you can use 5" splits. Some dynamat in the doors does wonders.

    I run mine with a V12 4 channel amp (sub has own amp) and is next best thing before going to major surgery, making up enclosures etc for bigger speakers.

  6. #6
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    Thanks Jay,
    My quandary atm is that I'd like to try using just the 2chn amp that I already have (rather than buying a 4chn amp). I can either use the amp for the rears or the fronts. I'm tempted to do as you suggest and use the amp with larger more powerfull speakers in the rear and just drive some 5.25" drivers from the head unit for the front, but I'm a little concerned that the rears will just provide 'fill' and may not offer much spatial separation of the sound for the stereo effect at the drivers seat, where as I understand that the front door speakers will provide a reasonable sound stage which would suggest the amp might be better untilised for the fronts. And since the amp is good for 100W RMS per chn, some good 5.25" splits driven by the amp in the front doors might be all I need?
    Cheers,
    Taz.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by LOVEMYRANGIE View Post
    Check the deck to see if you have preouts on it.
    These will plug straight in to the amp.
    Yup - lots of 4V pre outs (CDA-9885)

    Quote Originally Posted by LOVEMYRANGIE View Post
    If you are only running the front speakers straight from the deck, the rear speaker outputs from the deck will draw anything. The RMS figure is per channel, not total combined output so even if you did have 4 speakers dirctly off the deck, each are be powered by individual MOSFET's in the deck anyway.



    What V12 do you have??? Most of these are 4 channel unless it is an older one pre-digital display ones or the mono-block sub amps.
    Thanks Andrew - thats exactly what I was seeking confirmation on

    MRV-T420.


    Thanks Andrew!

  8. #8
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    Good amps. Bridgeable and rate at about 350W when done.

    I am actually looking for this or the later version to match my MRV-F345 or the monoblock but may opt for the mono as I can link in with a single cable to my existing amp without having to re wire apart from the speaker wire.

    I think you have heard my setup...... my fronts are 4" Alpines direct off the deck with the Alpine 12" subbie and JL Audio 6x9's running in the rear running off the amp.
    I would opt for good 4" for the front with about 50W handling power and straight off the deck and run larger 6x9 or preferably splits in the rear off the amp. Splits are a better option, although you have more speakers, you can place them in different areas to maximise their individual abilities.

    Will be doing splits front and rear in the D2 and FINALLY I have room to put the amps under the seats in the D2!!!
    Good thing with splits in the front is I already have two in the A pillars which are easily replaced and obviously already wired!

    Cheers

    Andrew

  9. #9
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    I did similar because standard entertainment system in D1 is truly crap.
    I did Alpine head unit with bluetooth etc built in and was thinking of the polks as before mentioned by someone but decided to go for Focal splits in front with external cross overs Focal two way in rear.
    Its a bit lacking in bass but detail is fantastic and I kept the standard speakers just in case if I ever sell I may change back to original due to money invested.

    Polks are good too. Have a listen to several makes and make up own mind I guess as we all have different ideas of what sounds best or good.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Taz View Post
    Thanks Jay,
    My quandary atm is that I'd like to try using just the 2chn amp that I already have (rather than buying a 4chn amp). I can either use the amp for the rears or the fronts. I'm tempted to do as you suggest and use the amp with larger more powerfull speakers in the rear and just drive some 5.25" drivers from the head unit for the front, but I'm a little concerned that the rears will just provide 'fill' and may not offer much spatial separation of the sound for the stereo effect at the drivers seat, where as I understand that the front door speakers will provide a reasonable sound stage which would suggest the amp might be better untilised for the fronts. And since the amp is good for 100W RMS per chn, some good 5.25" splits driven by the amp in the front doors might be all I need?
    Cheers,

    Taz.

    Spot on mate.

    If you only have a two channel amp, then put the power to the speakers where you sit, and you aint sitting in the back. As you also said the rears will provide fill only, which frankly is a waste when listening to two channel stereo music. I have yet to find someone who deliberately sits and listens to their home stereo, with their back to it, simply because our ears face more or less forwards.

    Any further expenditure would be better spent reintroducing the bass you lose with the engine running and road noise etc. A reasonable sub, (doesnt have to be big) will back fill the bass frequencies and give you the sound you hear when you listen without the vehicle in motion.

    cheers
    Nick

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