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Thread: 1998 D1 V8 Coolant leak

  1. #1
    sheerluck Guest

    1998 D1 V8 Coolant leak

    I have a coolant leak from what appears to be the rear of the left hand (looking from the front of the engine) head on my 1998 205k D1 V8. It is collecting on the top of the bellhousing, and dripping down the back of the block, a drip every 5 seconds or so when it is running, and no drips when it's switched off.
    The heater matrix on my D1 is bypassed, so it isn't a leak from there.

    Looking through other threads, there seem to be three other possible causes:

    1. Leaking welch plug at the rear of the head
    2. leaking intake manifold gasket
    3. Dead head gasket

    There doesn't seem to be any water in the oil, so I'm hoping it's not a seriously cooked head gasket. I guess only a sniffer test can confirm that one properly.

    So the questions before I start stripping it, and ordering parts I don't need:

    • Any other possibilities?
    • If it's the welch plug, is it possible to get to and replace/tighten without too much drama and without removing the heads?


    On another subject - my D1 is a poverty spec S model, and it was sold to me as not having central locking (rather than just not working!), which doesn't worry me overmuch. But on stripping one of the doors down to replace a window motor I saw that the lock motor was present in the door. And there is a fuse in the right place in the fusebox.
    So, I presume that D1s are supposed to be able to be centrally locked/unlocked from the driver's & front passenger door? If so, what is likely to be missing (I have no key fobs) or u/s so that this central locking is not working?

  2. #2
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    After I fitted a 3.9 out of a DI to my RRC it developed a severe coolant leak from the rear of the engine.
    It was very hard to see where it was coming from, even with a torch and a mirror.

    I came to the conclusion it was either the intake manifold gasket or a head gasket. Working on the premise that I would have to remove the intake manifold anyway, I started loosening the bolts.

    The rearmost two bolts on the drivers (right) side were only finger tight! I pulled the manifold completely off and it was easy to see where the coolant had been leaking.

    A clean up of the manifold and head surfaces and a new valley cover gasket cured the leak in only one mornings work.

  3. #3
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    Yes that is one place but mine leaks from the backs and fronts of both heads after 90KK of mostly 30C - 45C towing, since the last time I did the heads with composite gaskets.
    The water passages are between the end cylinders and the end of the head /block and usually they just leak coolant out the ends with no other problem.

    If it is that, the leaks do no harm other than to leave stains and drool.
    Do a compression test to be sure , but a drip every 5 seconds is a lot so maybe you should fix them, if it is that.

    Regard sPhilip A

  4. #4
    sheerluck Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by BigJon View Post
    After I fitted a 3.9 out of a DI to my RRC it developed a severe coolant leak from the rear of the engine.
    It was very hard to see where it was coming from, even with a torch and a mirror.

    I came to the conclusion it was either the intake manifold gasket or a head gasket. Working on the premise that I would have to remove the intake manifold anyway, I started loosening the bolts.

    The rearmost two bolts on the drivers (right) side were only finger tight! I pulled the manifold completely off and it was easy to see where the coolant had been leaking.

    A clean up of the manifold and head surfaces and a new valley cover gasket cured the leak in only one mornings work.
    BigJon, it was your thread that I read here that gave me number 2 on the list!

    Now this problem only seems to have started since I replaced a blowing exhaust manifold gasket (on that same head) during the week, so it seems possible I suppose that torqueing up the exhaust manifold bolts could well have moved the head just enough to start the leak if the head bolts or inlet manifold bolts aren't tight enough.

    I might just say stuff it, order the parts in for the worst case scenario - blown head gasket - and just do it anyway. It's 205k old and judging by the carbon I cleaned out of the exhaust manifold (and now blows out of the exhaust when given a good rev!) it's way overdue a decoke.

    Thanks for the replies guys, I'll start dismantling soon and report back here.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by sheerluck View Post
    It's 205k old and judging by the carbon I cleaned out of the exhaust manifold (and now blows out of the exhaust when given a good rev!) it's way overdue a decoke.
    Unless it's been done before, it's probably due for a camshaft & lifters too. Have a squiz while the manifold's off.
    Scott

  6. #6
    sheerluck Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Scouse View Post
    Unless it's been done before, it's probably due for a camshaft & lifters too. Have a squiz while the manifold's off.
    I hadn't banked on a camshaft, but had allowed for lifters and pushrods. Hunting around, I can see that a camshaft by itself is $120 delivered from the UK. But I presume that on top of that it's advisable to replace other parts, like timing gear too?

    Is there anything else in the "whilst you're in there you may as well....." category?

    Note, I'm not intending to remove the engine (though I suppose I would have to if I need to replace the cam!), I was expecting to remove the heads with the block still in.

  7. #7
    It'sNotWorthComplaining! Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by sheerluck View Post
    I hadn't banked on a camshaft, but had allowed for lifters and pushrods. Hunting around, I can see that a camshaft by itself is $120 delivered from the UK. But I presume that on top of that it's advisable to replace other parts, like timing gear too?

    Is there anything else in the "whilst you're in there you may as well....." category?

    Note, I'm not intending to remove the engine (though I suppose I would have to if I need to replace the cam!), I was expecting to remove the heads with the block still in.
    I did my cam with out removing the engine, remove the radiator and front grille and GENTLY lift the Aircon condensor and at the same time angling it on one side so that the rubber hose takes the twist not the pipes. Use a piece of rope to suspend it to your bonnet (hood), then you have enough room to pull the camshaft out from the front

  8. #8
    sheerluck Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by It'sNotWorthComplaining! View Post
    I did my cam with out removing the engine, remove the radiator and front grille and GENTLY lift the Aircon condensor and at the same time angling it on one side so that the rubber hose takes the twist not the pipes. Use a piece of rope to suspend it to your bonnet (hood), then you have enough room to pull the camshaft out from the front
    That's good to know, thanks. I didn't think there was enough clearance!

    When renewing the cam, what other parts are recommended to be changed at the same time?

  9. #9
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    Cam, lifters, timing set (chain and gears), rocker arms and shafts.

    New gaskets as required.

    Oil and filter when done.

  10. #10
    sheerluck Guest
    Well I took the old girl to a local garage (and found the guy there was a Landy enthusiast!) to do a sniffer test and a second opinion on all the defects I'd identified, and it was confirmed that the head gasket was OK.

    However, a day or so later I got some oil showing up in the water, so I think that regardless of the result of the sniffer test, I'm going to do the change anyway.

    To complicate matters, the bush mechanics had been having a go at maintenance. The radiator filler plug (the original plastic one) had obviously bust at some point, and to repair it, someone had drilled a hole through the middle and put a nut and bolt in. Needless to say, the plastic had rotted, and started to leak. The only option to get it out was to chisel it out bit by bit. Right up to the point I managed to drop the remains of it though the hole into the radiator. B****r. No running the engine then, until the radiator has been emptied and flushed

    So while I'm doing that, I might as well give the whole cooling system a set of new parts too.

    So the shopping list:
    Head gasket set and bolts
    Set of lower block gaskets and seals
    Set of cooler lines for engine and autobox
    camshaft, timing gear, tappets and pushrods
    Possibly rocker gear
    Set of hoses
    waterpump
    Viscous fan (though mine has been tested ok)
    Fuel filler to tank hose (mine's starting to crack)
    Bonnet release and cable
    New shocks and springs (+50mm ) and a few other suspension bits
    Replacement flexible brake hoses
    several other minor defects - window switch, a couple of relays
    And a boatload of service parts - brake pads, plugs, leads, filters.....

    This is all on top of the set of tyres (nearly new Bridgestone Dueler A/Ts), replacement front seats (thanks Bundalene!), new exhaust downpipe, rear wiper motor, washer bottle and others.

    Credit card melting at just the thought.

    Let the rebuild begin.

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