Thread: Clutch Replacement???

Originally Posted by Grover-98

From reading what you guys have to say sounds like taking the gearbox out might be the better option...

As for parts i have:

1. Heavy Duty Clutch
2. Machined Fly Wheel
3. Spigot Bush
4. Rear Main Seal
5. Heavy Duty Clutch Fork... as this is what caused the failure in the first place!

I will look into getting an alignment tool... and some courage to tackle this job!

Just to throw a spanner in the works re the rear main seal, , just replacing that does not guarantee that it won't leak from the 2 side "T" seals. These are rubber and get brittle and shrink with age.
For piece of mind do them as well as you need to drop the sump, and undo the rear crankshaft bearing cap to insert them into the slots. See Rave about them.
Other wise if it leaks after you assemble it all, then it's another mammoth job to redo. Better spend the little extra time first.

Get a new clutch fork as part of your "KIT" as they have a tendancy to wear thru the pivot ball. Had to replace my fork after 5 years (New from Factory). Replaced the clutch kit at the same time as the gearbox was off. Seven years later no problems. Just give the fork a good greasing with graphite paste.
Get yourself an engine crane as the Gearbox/transfer is very bloody heavy. You will need lots of 3/4" socket extensions for the top two bolts that attach the bellhousing to the engine. Also loosen the engine mounts so you can tilt the eng/box downwards to get to those bolts. Lots of swearing later you will get them out. Getting them back in was a lot easier.

hope this helps.

Luke

Originally Posted by Grover-98

From reading what you guys have to say sounds like taking the gearbox out might be the better option...

As for parts i have:

1. Heavy Duty Clutch
2. Machined Fly Wheel
3. Spigot Bush
4. Rear Main Seal
5. Heavy Duty Clutch Fork... as this is what caused the failure in the first place!

I will look into getting an alignment tool... and some courage to tackle this job!

Better replace the Thrush Bearing , ad that to the parts list. They are cheap

Originally Posted by It'sNotWorthComplaining!

Better replace the Thrush Bearing , ad that to the parts list. They are cheap

Does it sing a tune?

Originally Posted by bee utey

Does it sing a tune?

Oh TYPO
Better Add a Tube of CANESTAN CREAM TO THAT LIST

Not a bad job if you have the right tools.

A transmission trolley jack and an engine crane was used when i changed the clutch in the 130.

Be sure to change the spiggot bush and dont forget to soak in oil before you install it. I soaked mine for a week.

Check the flywheel is in good condition if not you will have to machine or replace.

For the allignment tool I used a long imperial socket and used electrical tape to make up the extral play and fitted the friction disc onto the flywheel. You can purchase a universal clutch kit, these are available to make the job a little easier and no fuss.

Pressure plate is tightened diagonally and to about 34 ft/lb. If the old bolts are stripped and worn make sure you replace them, i got mine from repco. Pretty expensive as I recall, I think around ten bucks for 4 - 5 bolts, you will require 8 so make sure you bring a twenty, this ensures you wont round them when tightening or undoing the next time round. I also replaced the front and rear prop shaft bolts too.

Make sure you replace the pivot fork and slipper pads, the release bearing should come with the new kit.

My engine was tilted forward slightly too after having removed the tranny so be sure not to crank the engine cause you will probably destroy your viscous and and water pump. Just a reminder, unless of course you release the accessory belt tensioner.

Refitting was a bit difficult, the angle was slightly obscure due to the irregular angle af the input shaft and the spiggot bush.

Once it was all mated up its just a straight forward process of tightening all the bellhousing bolts and transmission mounts.

Hope it goes well whichever method you decide to use, good luck!

If you are going to do it t/case out then g/box out make sure to make up some long locating dowels to slide the t/case along when mating up to the back of the 'box so you don't bugger up the seal.

(also a good excuse to replace the t/case input shaft seal and g/box input shaft seal too. Don't be tempted to do the g/box output shaft seal, that ones not nice to do with the shaft in situ......)

I decided to take the motor out figureing i can give it and the ba a good tidy up whilst im there and also fix the leaks ... But now that i have the motor ready to come out (and am just waiting on the hoist to arrive)... once its out cleaned and checked the fun of remembering what goes where will begin