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Thread: Fluid changes, filters and other recommendations

  1. #1
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    Question Fluid changes, filters and other recommendations

    Hi all,

    Well after initally looking for a Defender 130 and then 110 I have just purchased a 97 Tdi Disco . Pretty standard with only a tow bar as an accessory. Will be towing a camper trailer so the tow bar will come in handy .

    My first land rover!

    I want to change all the fluids and filters, auto box and transfer case were done recently. What oils do people recommend for the engine and diffs? What filters do people use - fuel, air and oil?

    The start of many questions! I have just ordered the RAVE CD for future reference.

    Is there anything else I should do maintenance wise? It has the black radiator expansion tank, should I replace this with a white one as I have heard they are prone to cracking? I will also be purchasing a low coolant/temp sensor this week, any recommendations as to which one?

    It seems a bit low on power, seems to take a while for the power to kick in when putting the foot down. Is this normal? It is obviously a lot different from my manual 4.2 GU Patrol.

    Cheers

    Simon
    Last edited by SimonM; 13th May 2010 at 10:29 AM. Reason: Added Tdi

  2. #2
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    have you got a V8 or a turbo 4 diesel?

  3. #3
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    For filters, I personally would only use:

    Donaldson
    MANN+HUMMEL
    Fleetguard
    Coopers (should be the same as OEM Land Rover)

    All will be OEM quality or better, others likely not.

    You will probably have to go to a specialist filter supplier to buy them.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigcarle View Post
    have you got a V8 or a turbo 4 diesel?
    Sorry it's a Tdi.

  5. #5
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    Well changed the engine oil and filters. What a crap job changing that oil filter is, gotta love having black oil running down your arm . Ended up using Penrite HPR15 which I used in the Patrol for many years.

    Diff oils next.

    Took a run to Newcastle to pick up the new (used) camper trailer and it seemed to pull it ok, struggled up some of the bigger hills but I loved driving it . There were a couple of times when the tacho fluctuated a bit but I didn't notice any physical changes in the running of the car, anyone have any ideas what this would be?

  6. #6
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    tacho feed is from the alternator so either a loose connection on the alternator or a sign the alternator is on its way out

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Earvin View Post
    Well changed the engine oil and filters. What a crap job changing that oil filter is, gotta love having black oil running down your arm . Ended up using Penrite HPR15 which I used in the Patrol for many years.

    Diff oils next.

    Took a run to Newcastle to pick up the new (used) camper trailer and it seemed to pull it ok, struggled up some of the bigger hills but I loved driving it . There were a couple of times when the tacho fluctuated a bit but I didn't notice any physical changes in the running of the car, anyone have any ideas what this would be?
    Next time you change the filter, cut a 2 litre plastic milk container in half. Slip the bottom half up over the filter and use it to undo the filter.

    The container catches all the oil and the filter just drops into the bottom of the container. No mess at all.

    1973 Series III LWB 1983 - 2006
    1998 300 Tdi Defender Trayback 2006 - often fitted with a Trayon slide-on camper.

  8. #8
    Join Date
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    I would look in
    The Good Oil Forum,,,,,
    "How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"

    '93 V8 Rossi
    '97 to '07. sold.
    '01 V8 D2
    '06 to 10. written off.
    '03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
    '10 to '21
    '16.5 RRS SDV8
    '21 to Infinity and Beyond!


    1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
    Home is where you park it..

    [IMG][/IMG]

  9. #9
    DiscoMick Guest
    I have a 95 Tdi.
    I had been using Penrite 15W40 or 20W50, but it was a bit rattly on startup so this time I went to Penrite 20W60 and it seems much quieter. Mine has done 280k. They like a 5000k oil change.
    I would change the black water container as mine split and cooked my previous motor and the replacement cost $6000.
    You will notice two plastic plugs in the top of the radiator and on top of the motor in the cooling system. They are one use only. Twisting them usually twists the head off. There are brass replacements available from Landy dealers which are worth the small change they cost.
    I recommend you pull up the carpet under the front seats and see if the floor is rusting around the seat mounts. A bit of rust converter and paint or oil should settle it.
    Do you have any rust on the underside of the opera windows at the back up high? Its a common problem. Best to fix it before it spreads.
    Your fuel pump can be tweaked to increase pulling power. Its a 5 minute job for anyone who knows what they're doing, such as a Landy specialist.
    Enjoy your truck - they're good things.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigcarle View Post
    tacho feed is from the alternator so either a loose connection on the alternator or a sign the alternator is on its way out
    Hopefully just a loose connection, will have a look tomorrrow. Seems to be more pronounced under load at about 2,500 to 3000rpm.

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