Thread: 300Tdi clutch dramas

My clutch started to shudder quite badly, was a nightmare to drive.
I contacted last owner and he had a new full clutch kit put in not long ago.
Well after much research it was down to the flywheel not being machined.

Gearbox out and new kit in plus a machining on flywheel.

Problem sorted finally but after another $1k spend.

So, whatever you do get the job done right the first time.
My advise anyhow.

Rob, you are right, its a nightmare pulling the gearbox out.
But if it has done over 200,000km, it will be due for a new clutch anyway and rear main seal and spigot bush while you're at it.
As big guy says, always get the flywheel machined (ground actually).
There is some debate as to whether you remove the engine or the gearbox. Either way you'll be on your back undoing the bell housing bolts.

It wont change the outcome too much but if you pull the slave off (two bolts - quick and easy) you can poke around and feel the fork. Will be able to at least establish if it has punched the rod through or collapsed the pivot.

S

ugh, gonna be a fun weekend

rear main seal already leaks a bit, seeps out the wading plug hole so getting the box out is probably a good thing anyway.

with the forks, are there any stronger aftermarket ones around yet?
Or are most people still just buying a replacement and re-enforcing it themselves?

If your going to do the rear main oil seal, pull the engine and remove sump and rear main bearing cap and change the T seals in the cap, they are prone to leak as well.

to anyone thinking of doing this job themselves, one word of advice;

DON'T

take it somewhere and pay for the pro's to do it. I'm sure wishing i did

that is all

Ah, come on Robzilla. please tell....
What dramas did you get yourself into???

front tailshaft bolts - two man job
lower clutch slave cylinder bolt. cracked two sockets and twisted two extenders before die grinding the bugger off. a 10mm head on a large washer surface area, stupidest thing i'd seen....

...until i started on the flywheel nuts. the two top ones alone only took a day to snap loose...slowly working on the rest now.

a whole weekend and the bellhousing is still firmly secured to the motor. the usual cut knuckles, squashed fingers, enough dirt in my eyes to build some bike jumps etc...

although i did have a chuckle at LR's instructions, direct from the workshop manual:
34. Remove bell housing nuts
35. Withdraw transmission

"easier said than done" was never so fitting