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Thread: Rust and oil on glow plugs - worry?

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Rust and oil on glow plugs - worry?

    Changed my glow plugs. Have no idea how long since been done last, as a guess over 70,000kms / 4years tho probably longer.
    They all came out easily thank god, after reading some horror stories about the tips falling into cylinders I was worried haha.

    However......

    cyl 1 light film oil
    cyl 2 rust/corrosion - thankfully still came out easily
    cyl 3 heavy oil
    cyl 4 light film oil

    From left to right is cylinders 4,3,2,1.



    Soooooooo, what is causing rust on #2, and where is oil from on #3, and should I be worried? What is next step or things to check? Or just leave it?

    I burn/use minimal oil between changes. I don't leak/lose/burn any coolant. No water in oil, no oil in water.

    Car seems to be running ok. New plugs made no difference to starting as far as I can tell. Put a multimeter on plugs, seemed to only be getting approx 10.7v, tho battery was around 12.4v so a bit low.

    Cheers.

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    the oil may be diesel thats worked up along the plug during cold starts and stuck onto the shaft. The rust is typically a sign of time to change the plugs before they grow into the head but it may also indicate

    a pot thats got some coolant sneaking in via porosity of the head or a crack in the manifold side of the intake valve

    b an engine thats been left sitting with that pots intake valve open for a prolonged period.

    c the "finish" on the body of the body of the glow plug wasnt up to standard before it was installed OR it had been left sitting out of its protective wrapper for some time prior to installation.

    Other than that providing the plugs look the same as each other when rotated (the burn mark on the tip is at the same angle on all of them) Id say that your number 3 injector has dropped its crack pressure and has a poor pattern or you have lost some compression on that pot. It looks like pots 1+4 may just be starting to get some poor patterning out of the injectors.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  3. #3
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    Thanks for well detailed reply, appreciate it.

    A guy at work said maybe it had been sitting for quite a while as well, which might have been the case as car was in a pretty sad state when I bought it - cobwebs and dead flat battery etc.

    I just changed the injectors last month or so, they looked pretty sooty but I don't know what they were supposed to look like. Should have changed glow plugs at same time....

    In a months time I will remove them just to have a looksy and see how they are going.

    Cheers.

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    -It is very very common for 300tdi heads to crack between the glowplug angled port and the nearest valve seat. the casting is very thin at this point.
    These cracks can run through to water jacket... no.2 may have cracked through to water with out yet leaking badly into the combustion chamber? Just a possibility.

    -The angled burn mark is due to the angle that the glow plugs sit in the head. I agree with Dave on no.3 maybe having poor injector pattern/ pressure, leading to oiled appearance.

    -On a 300tdi in above subzero temps the glow plugs do essentially nothing to aid starting, "probably" reduce initial emmissons though.

    Steve
    '95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
    '10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)

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