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Thread: Update

  1. #1
    fev Guest

    Update

    Hey all,
    Just got the disco back after a full service and some major welding doing. Been told I have rust issues above the windscreen but not urgent yet (next month). Planning on getting the roof lining and sunrooves done at same time.


    My main question is this:

    I am wanting to get the disco changed to gas, but I have heard that the conversion is bad for the disco's engine? Any one had issues after changing to gas? Also, how much should it cost? I've been quoted $2000 for a basic conversion, is this a good price and what do they mean by basic conversion?


    Thanks in advance

    Phil


    Oh one last question, I've been told my radiator needs replacing, any recommendations where to get one cheap? Cheers

  2. #2
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    Gas won't kill a D1 V8, they are well capable of doing 300 plus thousands of kays on gas. However you need to have the correct plugs and good leads fitted or it will probably backfire under load at the earliest opportunity. Basic conversion means a mixer ring fitted to the inlet, no fancy electronics and a gas tank ruining most of your cargo space. Search the forum for pics, there are various ways to do the job. Second hand is allowed too.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by bee utey View Post
    However you need to have the correct plugs and good leads fitted or it will probably backfire under load at the earliest opportunity.
    If you don't mind, could you name the good leads and plugs of which you speak??

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by brenno View Post
    If you don't mind, could you name the good leads and plugs of which you speak??
    Ignition leads:Bosch or Magnecor. I use the first all the time but others prefer the second.
    Plugs: Bosch WR7DC+ (or their NGK equivalent), or Bosch LPG specific platinum WR7KI33S. Gap is important, should be 0.7mm/0.028".
    Timing: should be set at 10 degrees BTDC for a standard engine on gas.
    Petrol: you may need to run premium unleaded as it is not recommended to use ethanol-containing fuels in dual fuel cars. It goes off too fast and attracts moisture.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by bee utey View Post
    Ignition leads:Bosch or Magnecor. I use the first all the time but others prefer the second.
    Plugs: Bosch WR7DC+ (or their NGK equivalent), or Bosch LPG specific platinum WR7KI33S. Gap is important, should be 0.7mm/0.028".
    Timing: should be set at 10 degrees BTDC for a standard engine on gas.
    Petrol: you may need to run premium unleaded as it is not recommended to use ethanol-containing fuels in dual fuel cars. It goes off too fast and attracts moisture.
    Thanks mate.

    The Disco is almost due to go back to the gas installers for the first tune (1500 kms after gas went in), would you suggest changing the leads and plugs prior to, or after the tune??

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by brenno View Post
    Thanks mate.

    The Disco is almost due to go back to the gas installers for the first tune (1500 kms after gas went in), would you suggest changing the leads and plugs prior to, or after the tune??
    Ask your gas installer what plugs/leads/timing he does, if he voilently disagrees with my recommendations then you need to do them afterwards.

    If you are still using the original leads, yes, change them ASAP. Remove a plug and check its gap. If it's bigger than 0.7mm either adjust or replace as required. Only you will be in charge of these service items, the installer usually only checks mixtures and things like hose clamp security and gas leaks.

  7. #7
    fev Guest
    Ok, so am I right in thinking the main diff as far as I'll notice is the location of the gas tank?

    Also, I have some surface rust on my roof which I am cleaning up but am aware that any touchup will be VERY obvious so, are there any options? Ie. Could I get some aluminum sheet and fatten it to the roof like defenders tend to do on the tops of the front wings?

    Many thanks,

    phil

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by fev View Post
    Ok, so am I right in thinking the main diff as far as I'll notice is the location of the gas tank?

    Also, I have some surface rust on my roof which I am cleaning up but am aware that any touchup will be VERY obvious so, are there any options? Ie. Could I get some aluminum sheet and fatten it to the roof like defenders tend to do on the tops of the front wings?

    Many thanks,

    phil
    Regular gas tanks are big cylinders, there are special design tanks that are better for getting stuff in your cargo area. The most popular tank is that from the Falcon wagons, called a manifold tank (or scuba tanks by those who don't know what a scuba tank is) and they lie flat on the floor. They are expensive but can be got second hand from some wreckers dismantling XA-EL ford wagons. The pic shows one installed in a forum members D1. It holds about 60 litres of LPG.

    Your roof is steel, so ally sheet is not a good idea. Standard bog and paint will hide it until it can be welded properly by a crash repairer.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by bee utey View Post
    Gap is important, should be 0.7mm/0.028".
    Timing: should be set at 10 degrees BTDC for a standard engine on gas.
    I have now got my gap at .6mm and 9 degrees BTDC - any issues?
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by garrycol View Post
    I have now got my gap at .6mm and 9 degrees BTDC - any issues?
    Within engineering tolerances. Allows for wear.

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