Hey Scallops, check this thread out...
someone else snapped a water pump bolt.. AND he did it into an ally block.
want to go show him how to fix it.. and
see, even the best of us do it sometimes.
AKA
Oh great another water pump thread.
Ok, so the Disco 1 I bought 5 months ago is finally nearing completion. After sitting on axle stands for all of that time while I uhmed and ahhed about what to do with it, I finally got close at the weekend to getting it to the running stage at least.
So after a few new parts:
and every drop of fluids drained, I got to installing the last few parts - water pump, and viscous coupling, cowling.
- big ends
- rings
- head rebuild - new valves, springs
- timing gear
- injector clean
- cam
- tappets & pushrods
- the whole cooling system - hoses, radiator, pump
- oil cooler lines
- all power steering components (except the box itself)
- every gasket and seal
- and many many more
I had intended to replace the waterpump bolts, had looked them up on Microcat and put them in the list of things to buy. But somehow (I know exactly how - good old Microsoft Excel had crashed during one of my "price a hundred components up with 10 suppliers" sessions), they had dropped off the list. The bolts I had put in with the new water pump ready to be installed.....were the old ones (and you can see what is coming can't you?)
I was in a rush to get the damned thing up and running, as we should be moving house soon, and it was 7.30 on a Sunday evening. I took one look at the bolts, thought ****, they're the old ones. BUT, I thought stuff it, I must get it done today.
Torqued most of the bolts up to the requisite Foot/Lb, and got to the last long one (goes through the waterpump and the timing cover into the block), when, yes you guessed it, CRACK, it sheared.
Couldn't see that happening could you? Apprentice mechanic 101 - never use old fixings. Especially 12 year old ones that show signs of corrosion having been involved in holding a waterpump on for 200,000km
Oh well, time to dismantle the front end again, drill out the end of the bolt that's sheared off and try all over again.
Moral of the story - always follow the rules. No matter if you're in a hurry.
Let the howls of laughter begin![]()
Hey Scallops, check this thread out...
someone else snapped a water pump bolt.. AND he did it into an ally block.
want to go show him how to fix it.. and
see, even the best of us do it sometimes.
AKA
Oh great another water pump thread.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Thanks Harry, but that's the worst part isn't it really? Learning by someone else's expensive mistake is the way it's supposed to go!
Reading lots of other threads about waterpump debacles and snapped bolts, and somehow expecting the outcome to be different for me is daft.
But I guess once Mr Murphy and his laws come into play, if there was to be a time that a bolt would shear, it would be at 7.30 on a Sunday when I'm in a hurry!
out of interest, a mate of mine is a fitter and snapped a bolt off deep down in a cummins block. got the mig out and filled the hole with weld (doesnt stick to the cast block), welded a nut on and wound the whole show out. the heat probably helped too. operation big success!
for all the engine stuff, heads and the like..
try
300TDI engine parts from Turner Engineering
good price, fast delivery (even from uk)
My mistake was hardly expensive - not in monetary terms anyway - cost me $70.00 to rebuild my original water pump, and $10.00 for the Helicoils.
OK - the grog and food for the thank you BBQ will be another thing!
The reasons for my ongoing 10 week debacle were...
1) My car is from 1956 - so sourcing parts takes time and often suppliers send the wrong parts.
2) Many parts are Indian repros - not always made to tolerance so again, these are sent back and the search continues.
3) My lack of experience and knowledge meant I had to go slowly to learn.
So no match was ever coming near my Series 1 - you just don't treat classics like that.![]()
Still - all I stuffed up was breaking 1 bolt. It's all good now, thanks to my LR mentors.
It sounds like you know what you're doing really, so I'm sure you'll have it sorted soon.![]()
It wasn't exactly straight forward getting the broken bolt out again, but that might have been partly due to the cast iron block it was stuck into.
2007 Defender 110
2017 Mercedes Benz C Class. Cabriolet
1993 BMW R100LT
2024 Triumph Bonneville T120 Black
Hey I wouldn't go that far! I've just learnt which end of a screwdriver to hold!
Yes, a 12 year old Disco is a very different beast to a 50 year old Series 1, is as much as they are very common, very easy to get parts for (though getting a good price is a different matter!), and 40 years newer so that getting the damned things apart should be a much simpler matter.
All I've had a problem with so far was:And then this one. So I'm not whining too much, it could have been far worse! There hasn't been many things that a rattle gun, blowtorch or both hasn't managed to remove.
- Getting the viscous hub off (with a great suggestion by Blknight.aus)
- Undoing one rounded off head bolt (ended up using a die grinder to grind it off - very tedious)
- Undoing the small screw holding the handbrake drum on (drilled out)
There's only one unsolved issue so far, and that's the brake distribution valve that won't let any fluid through to the rear brakes, but I'm going to send the new one back to the supplier and replace it and hopefully I'll be up to a running vehicle stage then.
don't do the bolts up to torque until all of them are in finger tight
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