Thread: Clutch change 300TDI

Never done a 300TDi clutch but I would think the bolt count would be lower that way, and you can fit the clutch at eyeball height. Bonnet off, chain hoist or engine crane, just need to bleed the injector pump afterwards.

I did mine by taking the gearbox and transfer case out.Pretty straight forward but the 3 or 4 (can't remember number) bolts on the top of the bellhousing was a bit of a bastard to get at.
Whack a heavy duty clutch in they are cheap from England.I think mine came from Craddocks.
Have fun.

Yeah it's those top bolts and having to balance the whole thing on a jack without a specific cradle is what all the swearing was about, plus having to work underneath the car and arms above your head. As I don't have access to a proper workshop anymore(ie; at work) I can't make up a jig to suit the g/box hence the engine out option I was thinking of. This would also allow me to check the leak around the back of the engine and see if it is the main seal or just the sump gasket.
Just some light info for people out there.
I changed the clutch (Std replacement) kit about 6-7years ago as the fork had worn thru the pivot ball. I didn't machine the flywheel or replace the rear main seal as they were ok. 110-130k kms later it is still holding up good apart from the noisy thrust bearing. I think I'll wait until the gears are hard to change or the bearing gets too loud and then change the whole thing.
Without pulling it apart I think to be safe I'll replace the clutch fork at the same time as the rest of the kit. No problems with the old one as I used Graphite paste on the pivot ball and the input shaft.


Dec 98 Series 1 DISCO SE 280,000kms and still going stronger than ever.

Originally Posted by luke68

Yeah it's those top bolts and having to balance the whole thing on a jack without a specific cradle is what all the swearing was about, plus having to work underneath the car and arms above your head. As I don't have access to a proper workshop anymore(ie; at work) I can't make up a jig to suit the g/box hence the engine out option I was thinking of. This would also allow me to check the leak around the back of the engine and see if it is the main seal or just the sump gasket.
Just some light info for people out there.
I changed the clutch (Std replacement) kit about 6-7years ago as the fork had worn thru the pivot ball. I didn't machine the flywheel or replace the rear main seal as they were ok. 110-130k kms later it is still holding up good apart from the noisy thrust bearing. I think I'll wait until the gears are hard to change or the bearing gets too loud and then change the whole thing.
Without pulling it apart I think to be safe I'll replace the clutch fork at the same time as the rest of the kit. No problems with the old one as I used Graphite paste on the pivot ball and the input shaft.


Dec 98 Series 1 DISCO SE 280,000kms and still going stronger than ever.

I used an engine hoist through the drivers door and through the floor to hold the box up and move it. the hardest part of that procedure besides the forementioned bolts is getting that stupid bolt into the handbrake lever.in the end I changed that bolt to a smaller high tensile one .That was a couple of years back and have had no problem with it since.When you replace your clutch fork have someone ( or yourself) weld a washer behind the indentation, that strengthens it considerably as that is a known failure with that stupid design.

I changed my clutch fork by removing the engine.
I took some fotos and posted them here Google Traductor

It is necessary to remove both front engine supports at the start, and with them removed it is possible to go down with the engine in order to gain some space to remove bolts on the top of the bellhousing.

This method (removing engine) is described in the 2006 issue of the RAVE.
But i think the important to decide if gearbox or engine to remove is which of them is needing more repairs or leaks to attend.

Regards