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Thread: Front wheel alignment

  1. 16th December 2010, 08:34 PM #1
    jonse
    jonse is offline Fossicker
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    Front wheel alignment

    New to me 98 D1 a week ago. I'm going through the deferred maintenance (was aware of when I bought it)

    Replaced all 4 steering ball joints and reset as close as I could to what I took off (this doesn't mean a lot the old ones were lubricated with rust) Now I find that there isn't enough adjustment (can't get it short enough) in the tie rod from steering box to front left wheel to get the steering wheel straight. Steering box has been refurbed recently by a LR specialiist in Sydney. All I can think is they didn't centre the box before install.

    Is there something wrong with my thinking ? Is my next step to re-center the steering box then the wheel then re-adjust the front tie rod ?

    Was going to adjust the toe in which I got very wrong based on number f threads showing on the old ball joints on the drag link - is currently toed in by approx 1degree - no wonder it won't go around corners. Nedd to get this right quick as I need to get new tyres next week before a Xmas break.
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  2. 16th December 2010, 08:44 PM #2
    PhilipA
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    Is there something wrong with my thinking ? Is my next step to re-center the steering box then the wheel then re-adjust the front tie rod ?

    Well I would check the box centring, then adjust the rod to a 50-50 position, then remove the wheel and shift it on the splines until it is correct.
    Regards Philip A
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  3. 16th December 2010, 08:54 PM #3
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    JDNSW
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    Also note that any change to the panhard rod bushes or any change in spring height will affect steering wheel centring.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
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  4. 16th December 2010, 09:56 PM #4
    jonse
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    Also note that any change to the panhard rod bushes or any change in spring height will affect steering wheel centring.

    John
    Thanks for the replys JDNSW and PhillipA even if it isn't what I wanted to hear (looking for the magic bullet solution) Looks like I'll be undoing the balljoints again (I hate doing that with new joints - too much risk of damaging the boots) removing the tie rod and centring it all up from scratch. I mistakenly assumed that a shop with a good rep would have done the steering box rebuild and refit job right and centred it all up after refitting. Bugger I've got a lot to do this side of Xmas
    Last edited by Pedro_The_Swift; 17th December 2010 at 08:37 AM. Reason: just type the word. newbie warning.
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  5. 17th December 2010, 12:20 AM #5
    mike 90 RR Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by jonse View Post
    Looks like I'll be undoing the balljoints again (I hate doing that with new joints - too much risk of damaging the boots)
    .. Are you using that ball joint wedge tool? .... Don't use it .... You won't damage the rubber boot if you just loosen off the nut and then hit the side of the arm (that the ball joint pin fits in) with a hammer ... 2 hits and it will just spring out
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  6. 17th December 2010, 05:49 AM #6
    jonse
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike 90 RR View Post
    .. Are you using that ball joint wedge tool? .... Don't use it .... You won't damage the rubber boot if you just loosen off the nut and then hit the side of the arm (that the ball joint pin fits in) with a hammer ... 2 hits and it will just spring out
    I normally use a ball joint splitter - screw type. For whatever reason the two hammers trick hardly ever works for me, works every time for a pal - in fact only time it worked was on the A frame ball joint on my previous RRC.
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  7. 17th December 2010, 10:07 AM #7
    mike 90 RR Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by jonse View Post
    For whatever reason the two hammers trick hardly ever works for me,
    Use a Gimpy then ... You have to hit it "square to the hole" at the "end" of the shaft ... (Avoid hitting on the side of the shaft)
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