My Dodgy Disco, an update and a plea for advice....

Thanks mate called them today $50 changeover can't beat it getting one today hopefully my economy changes, even a little would be nice. Got your wheel nuts too ill bring them jamieson weekend..
edit.. seems i dont hear too well when trains are going by cost me $90 and they fitted it for me too. I also cleaned the 'Hotwire' and will buy a new volt gauge to check the MAF which looks like it was tampered with before i got it. It feels like its running better already after i adjusted the timing too.. fingers crossed for better figures tomorrow!!

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Originally Posted by Landover

Performance Ignitions in Nunawading sell them. I got mine from there and cost around $70. Pretty easy to replace, I did not even remove the distributor to do it.

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I agree with the thrasher...get in and kick its a$$!!!

They are V8s and they are actually really fun to drive and can go pretty hard so long as you're careful not to roll it, but mine sticks to the road pretty well and I love driving it. I just bought a Tdi to replace it although I'd like to keep both but the V8 really is a great engine and looked after I've heard they can run upwards of 500k km easily, just regular maintenance and don't let them get away from you. They all sound like relatively minor issues that once fixed will make you love the car and at the end of all this messing around hopefully you will have heaps of confidence in the vehicle because by then you'll know it inside out!

Get new plugs don't mess with old stuff, new leads while you're at it too. I can't even remember if I have already posted on this thread it just took my interest so I got in and read a few posts.

I love the 3.9 V8 and when I sell mine I'm really going to miss it :( I think the V8 D1 is one of the best driving cars I've ever been in, they can just be a little fussy about some things...

Found the vac hose on the IAC to the fuel reg was relaxing behind the engine so I cut the end and replaced it hopefully that will make a difference as I had no power this morning going to work after tuning it last night.. Bit by bit finding more to fix thanks to this forum I'd be lost otherwise.

I got wheel spin on a wet road for the first time ever in my disco lol.. Maf was out by about .4 so readjusted it and cleaned the plug.. cleaned the IAC and put all new vacuum hoses on it and the vac advance. reset the timing again. It has more power than it ever did and better ability to hold cruising speed.. What i need to know (sorry for hijacking the thread) is how to reduce the idle speed as i believe the previous owner hid the problem by just idiling it up, It ran a bit rough before now its smmmmoooth as a babys bum. Phil A your a gem mate i followed this thread for a while before i decided to check out my probs and I think you were right on the money..;)

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Originally Posted by nicho

What i need to know (sorry for hijacking the thread) is how to reduce the idle speed...

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3/16 inch allen key, insert into little cast projection on top of throttle housing, screw in (clockwise).

In regards to the vac advance on the dizzy.I thought it was worth noting that one of the hose connections on the dizzy is a breather but usually has a rubber bung on it and it will only keep allowing air to pass and the other is for the vac advance and will be very noticeable when sucked on.The previous owner of my Rangie classic I bought a few years ago with a Disco 3.9 had connected the wrong line from the dizzy so there was no vac advance and was running a little rough.I discovered the wrong connection and all was well again.Did make a difference with fuel economy.
Cheers
Shane

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Originally Posted by bee utey

3/16 inch allen key, insert into little cast projection on top of throttle housing, screw in (clockwise).

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Oh and if this fails check the T piece in the crankcase breather. If it has been replaced with a generic tee it won't have the restrictor to the manifold. It is around 1mm hole size. Last fake one I found I put a cut-off piece of copper tube in the hose, squashed to suit. Otherwise the engine starts with 2000 rpm or higher.

Thanks Beeuty this could be my problem it does just that but then drops to 750rpm quite fast. I'll have a look when I get home. For now I'm enjoying not slowing down on hills like I was and not watching the fuel gauge move as fast as I drive. 1 happy camper here.

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Originally Posted by bee utey

Oh and if this fails check the T piece in the crankcase breather. If it has been replaced with a generic tee it won't have the restrictor to the manifold. It is around 1mm hole size. Last fake one I found I put a cut-off piece of copper tube in the hose, squashed to suit. Otherwise the engine starts with 2000 rpm or higher.

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3/16 inch allen key, insert into little cast projection on top of throttle housing, screw in (clockwise).

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Beeutey, you should tell him to take off the hose and block off the IAC at the throttle body and inlet to the IAC so that it does not just compensate.
The allen key sets the base idle and it should be about 550-600RPM with the IAC blocked.
Regards Philip A

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Originally Posted by PhilipA

Beeutey, you should tell him to take off the hose and block off the IAC at the throttle body and inlet to the IAC so that it does not just compensate.
The allen key sets the base idle and it should be about 550-600RPM with the IAC blocked.
Regards Philip A

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Nah, I'll let you tell him.:)

Doesn't help if the tee is bodgy. Seen that more than once this year. Slack mechanics, what do they know?:mad: