The ECU is on the drivers side.Remove the kick panel and its tucked away up in the corner.
hi everyone would like some advice on why it wont start anymore. I have replaced the 3.9 v8 motor with a new one and was working fine. then the following symptoms occured.
1. it wont idle below 1,000 rpm - so cleaned out the IAC no real improvement. checked and re checked for air leaks but nothing, swapped the plenum over for another no change. it will only settle down when stopped for a while.
2. then it wouldnt start without holding the foot on the accelerator
3. then it developed a miss which would eventually go away after a while
4. found out my old MAF was shot and had it replaced with a working one.
replaced the plugs didnt fix it, changed rotor and cap no change then today i decided to buy new leads and since then it has not wanted to go, it went for a while and was missing and carrying on. so checked i put the leads on in order but now nothing.
I can smell fuel, i have spark, the fuel pump is doing its thing it wants to go but just wont fire up.
I also want to reset the ECU but for the life of me I can not find it... From what i have read its under the passenger kick panel. I have pulled the glove box out and can only see the following.
ABS box - funny I dont even have ABS
Window control box
and some Hella thing and thats it
where is my ecu so i can reset it?
A long list of things and any help or direction would be great as everything was fine prior and no idea what has changed.
The ECU is on the drivers side.Remove the kick panel and its tucked away up in the corner.
Have you tried a new coil, Amp on side of dissy, fuel pressure reg., Regards Frank.
SPROVER thank you I have been looking everywhere for that, just disconnected and now waiting a few minutes before trying to start it again. I even have a 97 wiring loom sitting out in the shed and its on the passenger side was doing my head inif I ever make it to the next vic meet i owe you a beer.
The ECU of a 14CUX is like in that movie, as it has no memory so every time it is started its a new day.
So no use disconnecting it.
Let me get this clear. It only refused to start after you replaced the plug wires.Hmmmmmm.
You checked the ignition sequence clockwise?
A general rule is to go back to what happened immediately before the problem started. I would go back once again and check the plug wires. remember it is also easy to have them in the correct sequence but 180 degrees out, or out by one cylinder.
I suggest that you take out number 1 plug and find TDC firing by putting your thumb over the plug hole. Then check that the rotor points at that cylinder terminal in the dizzy..
Sorry if I am telling you how to suck eggs
Regards Philip A
ok after resetting the ECU it fired up no problems, miss gone everything like a new car again, cant explain why if it does not hold any memory that that should change anything.
It also feels different now than to before ie not so much get up and go as before so i wonder if the fuel supply / map if thats what its called has changed as its very tame now.
Still no change however on the revs / idle problem so that is a job for tomorrow will change the plenum to the spare one and see what happens and try and find the spare IAC as i put it in one of those safe places but where that safe is will be a job to figure out
will keep you posted and hopefully I will be able to make it to the meet coming up
Thanks for the info and appreciate all the advice as it just makes me double check things and so when someone tells me the same way im thinking then I assume im doing something right otherwise I have learnt something knew.
Also I noticed in your post to Mattski about an 'o' ring on your IAC as the gasket is shot. mmm you know I have nothing there other than me making sure its secure so now im thinking could air get past that? would need to be a lot I would have thought. I have been able to get the idle down by taking of the fuel reg hose for a while making the engine rev higher then putting the hose back on as the stepper has kicked in and done its thing but eventually the revs go back up to approx 1100 and damned if i know why yet.
the latest aldi catalogue has 'o' ring kits this week so might go and invest in one![]()
Well it is not possible for revs to increase without an air leak OR centrifugal advance sticking at advance.have been able to get the idle down by taking of the fuel reg hose for a while making the engine rev higher then putting the hose back on as the stepper has kicked in and done its thing but eventually the revs go back up to approx 1100 and damned if i know why yet.
Firstly I would try to reset the base or curb idle after cleaning areound the throttle area and blade. If you cannot get the base idle down with the allen kay and the IAC blocked off then you must have a leak.
The caveat being that the centrifugal advance is moving back to the retarded position. So before you check the base idle check that he rotor will move about 3MM and spring back . If it does not then take off the rotor(carefully) and take out the screw inside ( optional) and drop some engine oil down and manipulate the rotor until it frees up.
You should also do the suck test on the vacuum advance. Also check that the vacuum advance bracket is actually tight on the dizzy. I found mine floating around once which put the timing all over the joint.
Do those things and let us know what the result is.
Regards Philip A
BTW you flooded it if it started OK next time. Keep your foot OFF the accelerator, that is what the IAC does.
Last edited by PhilipA; 19th January 2011 at 08:34 AM. Reason: more info
The Amp rarely fails when cold so you will still get spark, it may fail when hot, wouldn't hurt to try a new one or one that you know works and what PhilipA says, Regards Frank.
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