Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 18

Thread: 300Tdi remove ignition barrel help please

  1. #1
    Harro123 Guest

    300Tdi remove ignition barrel help please

    At last my ignition barrel has given up the ghost. Key wont work at all. My plan is to simply remove the barrel (just the barrel) and then remove bits from the mechanism so the key will turn. Appreciate this lowers the security of the vehicle to zip but so be it!
    It appears that the barrel is held in by a brass pin that you can see from the back (front side of car) with a mirror. It has 4 small dents around the alloy on the side which appear to keep it in place.
    Question..If I dremel off the small dints will the pin come out and the barrel be released??? (with the key in the aux position of course)

    All the above wil save me getting a whole new assembly.

    Harro

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Sunshine Coast - Queensland
    Posts
    355
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Hi Harro and welcome to the forum.
    I have a complete steering column lock assembly (STC1435G) on the desk here in front of me.
    I have found the brass pin held in with 4 x "punch" marks you refer to.
    When I push the barrel inwards the pin does "rock" so I can only assume it does hold in the barrel.
    So if i was a betting man I would say "Dremmel Away!" but not having done it before I would have to keep my money in my pocket

  3. #3
    Harro123 Guest

    thanks

    Thanks Matti,
    I have a bit more confidence now. Do you know what is in behind the barrel once I pull it out?
    I imagine its like others that just reinsert the same as long as the key is in the same position as when pulled apart. I fear that there may be a hundred do-hickys and springs just waiting to pop out !


    My plan is to remove the little pins so, in short, any key will work.

    Harro

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Posts
    503
    Total Downloaded
    0
    New barrels and key sets are not expensive, and only take about 20mins to swap over. Just keep the old key for the fuel flap and door looks.

  5. #5
    Harro123 Guest

    Clarification

    Quote Originally Posted by Taz View Post
    New barrels and key sets are not expensive, and only take about 20mins to swap over. Just keep the old key for the fuel flap and door looks.
    Taz..do you mean just the key barrel or the whole steering lock assembly?
    If just the key barrel do you have advice on how to get the barrel out?
    I think its held in by a pin on the front of car side of the barrel assembly. I figure that if I get this pin out then the barrel should come out.
    Any advice?
    Harro

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    27
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I couldnt turn the ignition on, the lock smith knocked out the pin I think and then the barrel just cam out, he removed the bent waffers. He said to leave some in or your key could rattle to the off position and the steering lock could come on while driving.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Albury Wodonga
    Posts
    816
    Total Downloaded
    0
    New barrels and key sets are not expensive, and only take about 20mins to swap over. Just keep the old key for the fuel flap and door looks.
    Taz..do you mean just the key barrel or the whole steering lock assembly?
    If just the key barrel do you have advice on how to get the barrel out?
    I think its held in by a pin on the front of car side of the barrel assembly. I figure that if I get this pin out then the barrel should come out.
    Any advice?
    Harro
    Whole steering lock and barrel assembly cost be about 20 pounds from paddocks I believe, 6 months ago. Dead simple to change over. I paid a locksmith $30 to rekey the new lock to suit original key.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Posts
    503
    Total Downloaded
    0
    From memory, there are two bolts with dome'd or rounded heads that are accessible once the plastic cowling is removed. Just tap the edges of the domed head with a cold chisel or screw driver to get them rotating. Mine were easy to undo. The rounded bolt heads are made of soft metal. After that it was straight forward.
    Good luck.

    PS - I got my replacement from Karcraft

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Sunshine Coast - Queensland
    Posts
    355
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Sorry about the late reply Harro,
    No, I don't know what's behind the pin as I haven't bothered to pull this one apart.
    My key was getting dodgy and I went to get a second hand unit ($60) and it wasnt much better and only had one key. I decided to bite the bullet and get a reliable (new) assembly and $300 later it was in the car. The complete assembly is not cheap and I couldn't get a replacement barrel (in a hurry on a Saturday) quick enough. The expense of this item is probably the reason I cant bring myself to chuck it out - it still has a good switch assembly on it.
    Yes, you must keep one old key in the car for other door locks (not necessary with central locking) but mainly for fuel filler cap lid thing.
    Let me know how the dremmeling goes and I might try to repair this one with any advice you can give me.
    Cheers,

  10. #10
    Harro123 Guest
    Problem solved. The key barrell comes out easily if you grind of the little dints described above. The lock pin then comes out and the barrel slides out easily. Just remove and/or grind back errant sliders and put it all back together.

    Harro

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!