Thread: fit 33' to my disco 1

hay all my d1 has a 3" lift and 2" body lift with cut and flared guard's i just changed my 33's for a set of 35"x13.5"x16" maxxis mudzilla's i only get a very small amount of rub at full flex. i can't remeber what off set the rim are sorry but i had to back the streeing lock off about half a turn, it's running maxidrive axle's and arb lockers but it still has standard gears and cv's which have been holding up to the test.

When you go for big tyres, you have to expect more mods.
Without mods, you start breaking stuff pretty quickly.
Mods do cost a stack of dollars, but just do it over time.
35's, well the guys who have them know what can break and what needs to be enhanced.
Not to give the impression of my car being better than anyone else, l have set up my car to do rock , creeks etc.
The best set up to suit 35's are:

Modified body mounts,
Bump stops and dislocation cones
Adjustable crank chromoly trailing arms and HD bushes
Castor corrected radius arms
twin locked
HD Axles and CV's
Dual cardon drive shaft
raked rear end with steel HD Bar
rock sliders
custom underbody protection, steering, transfer and fuel tank
fully cut guards with decent flares to suit the bug rubber
Diff reduction, to avoid snuffing your engine
tubed HD steering arms
3" Spring
2" Body lift
Pro comps or similar

To set up a car correctly, with strength, durability, etc etc, these items would need to be seriously considered.
33's are the best option, to reduce a large amount of the above, in the short term.
You don't want to know how much all this has cost me.

For thoses wanting to run 33's.
The main thing to consider is HD axles, cut guards, and offset rims.
This is first and formost to get started.
Try for 15" rims.
The reason is that the tyre you choice after dropping pressures will bag up better.
More wall depth athe better bag up.

A decent temp gauge would be prudent, if no diff reduction on big tyres.
Disco's tend to run a bit hot under load.